Dimitri Gomez Bespoke Shoe Unboxing | Kirby Allison

Hi I’m Kirby Allison founder of the Hanger Project and here in the Hanger Project welove helping the well-dressed take care of theirwardrobes.

In this video, I’m going to be unboxing or in this case revealing a new pair of bespoke Dimitri Gomez shoes I picked up while in Paris in October.

For those of you that have beenfollowing our YouTube channel you may have seen the videofrom my most recent fitting in Paris and you’ll probably remember thatthere were some adjustments that needed to be made to the shoe in order for them to fit perfectly.

Dimitri being an incrediblecraftsman, of course, took those shoes back and completely remade them in order for them to fit perfectly.

On this last trip through London and Paris I was able to stop by and pick those up and I couldn’t have been any happier with the results.

So I have worn these in Paris but I’m going to be showing them toyou for the first time in this video.

So as many of you know from thefirst video on Dimitri Gomez he actually shares a small workshop at Crockett & Jones.

So all of the delivery kind ofcollateral is actually Crockett and Jones.

And so these bags as you can see are embroidered Crockett and Jones- there’s really nothingspecial about these bags.

He offered me a box but because I was flying back with these shoes I didn’t want tocarry the box so instead I asked for him to just give me two shoe bags so that I could double bag these shoes.

Here we are beautiful shoes.

Absolutely beautiful.

So one of the things that you’ll remember I was speakingabout in the original video from my fitting at Dimitri Gomez is what I was going for my first pair of Gomez shoes of course it’s black pair this is a cap toe Oxford.

It’s a semi brogue.

It’s not a full brogue which wouldbe a traditional wingtip and you know I went with black because again I’m a firmbeliever that if you’re spending the money ona bespoke pair of shoes you’re going to get themost lifetime out of a black pair.

And so I don’t know how many pairs of Dimitri Gomez shoes I’m gonnahave the privilege of owning but I did know that with my first pair I wanted black.

The second thing I wanted was a completely different shaped toe than what I get with my Cleverley shoes.

Anyone who knows Cleverley knows that they’re best known for theirsuspiciously square toe shape on their shoes it’s iconic Cleverley so with my Dimitri Gomez shoes I knew for certain that I didn’twant anything square because I’ve already got those with my Cleverley.

I also knew that I didn’t wantanything too round just because I’ve never been ahuge fan of a particularly round toe just because I think that it’s not that modern.

One of the most enjoyable parts of commissioning these shoes and collaborating with Dimitri and having them made was actually working with him to determine the proper toe shape.

And from those that have watched ourfirst fitting video you’ll see that we actually set out several differentpairs of shoes each with slightly different almond shape toes.

Before we settled upon this toe shape.

So as you can see it is just a perfectly beautiful almond shaped toe.

And so this is my first pair of bespoke shoes with an almond shaped toe it’s funto add these to my collection and they were an absolute pleasure to wear.

Now one of the other details you’ll remember is we did six eyelets.

You know that was more of just asimple stylistic detail.

Dimitri would normally do five but I wanted six because it was aslight kind of American detail.

And again just one of those otherelements to signal that this was a bespokepair of shoes.

Now the craftsmanship is absolutely incredible.

You know nice tightwelt, absolutely stunning and beautiful heel, you can see how this curves intothis shoe and actually follows the shape oflast.

It is absolutely not what you would expect from a ready to wear shoe.

And one of the other things thatagain is hard to show on the video.

But another bespoke detail is that the inside edge always pitches in slightly more than the outside edge.

As you can see Dimitri spent a lotof time finishing the soles of theshoe.

So the entire sole – the out sole – is dyed black and polished and you can see whereI’ve worn them.

He installs the Lulu metal toe taps just to give theshoes some extra durability.

And you really see this from a lotof European makers because in Europe you’re doing so much more walkingthan you have in the United States so it’s just a detail that is quite consistent.

Now since Dimitri for all intents and purposes is a one man shop, one of the benefits that you get with Dimitri Gomez versus going with the proper shoemaking firm is that there’s no specialization.

Dimitri does all the work himself and that includes the shoe trees which is incredibly rare.

You can see these are fully lasted which means that he basically copies the shape of the last in order tocreate the shoe tree.

So it is perfectly mimicking theshape of the last on which the shoe wasbuilt and it’s quite difficult to get outof the shoe.

So, beautiful shoe tree, you can see you know it cuts out an area right here to lighten thetree.

It’s hollowed out and you can just see how this is perfectly following the shape of the shoe.

You know you can also see that theshoe tree is hinged.

You know that’s an important detail because if you have a hinged shoe tree you have no give, you know for the length and of the actualshoe tree.

So it has to fit absolutely perfectly in order for the shoe tree to be effective atstretching the shoe back down.

And so if you see a hinged shoe tree almost every single time it is a bespoke shoe tree becauseit’s really the only way to pull this off and for it to work.

Now bespoke shoes, again because they fit so tightly, you always want to loosen the shoe laces really all the way down the vamp.

And the reason is because you needas much kind of give here as possiblein order to slide your foot in.

With the ready to wear shoe, you can really get away with you know not loosening theshoelaces completely because you know theydon’t ever fit perfectly tight like a bespoke shoe would.

So there’s always a little bit ofextra play and give in the shoe itself.

But in a bespoke shoe even to get the shoe tree out.

So again one of the other detailsyou’ll see here is that on the inside of the shoe it’s embossed Dimitri Bottier – which is you know”shoemaker” and I’m probably mispronouncing thatso those of you who speak french pleasego easy on me – for Crockett & Jones.

And again you know that just is reflective of the fact thatDimitri has a special relationship with the Crockett and Jones brand as being kind of the residentbespoke Shoemaker in the Parisian store.

Before I actually put them on myfeet there is just one thing I do want to point out and that is that I’m wearing a really fine dress sock.

Now, the thickness of your dresssock is incredibly important in terms of how a shoe fits.

And the best type of dress sock, a proper dress sock is as thinly knit as possible.

The reason you want thin dress sock is one it helps you feel the shoe better.

Right.

So if a shoe fits properly it should be fitting your foot, not your sock.

So the thinner the sock, the better the shoe fits, the less room there is to movearound and it allows the shoe to actually be more comfortable.

The other benefit of a really thindress sock is that they all but disappear on your feet because it’s not suffocating or you know clamming your feet up because you’ve got all thismaterial.

So all of the socks we carry on thehanger project are sovereign grade socksthat we have made in Italy are knit from the highest possible needlecount to be as thin as possible and that’s how you know you’rebuying a really high quality dress sock.

Of course take a look at our YouTubechannel.

We have other videos going in depth into what actually makes aquality dress sock and the theory there.

If I was trying to try these shoeson with a thicker pair of socks they wouldn’t fit well at all.

And I might not even be able to getmy foot in there.

But let’s go ahead and try these out.

So of course I’ve got a shoe horn here.

This is one of our Hanger Projecthorn shoehorns.

I’m just going to pull he top of that tongue.

Put that on, let’s do the one.

Insert my foot in there.

So you can certainly accuse the shoelaces of being a little short onthese shoes because it is a 6 eyelet shoe so I’m probably going toreplace these with a pair of my 80 centimeter unwaxed sovereign grade cotton shoelaces just to go a littlebit longer end.

But otherwise look at the shoes.

I mean they fit absolutely beautifully.

You don’t see any wrinkling acrossthe vamp.

You know, my arch is as well accounted for.

One of the things that I can tellyou is that I walked extensively around Paris with these shoes the first day thatI picked them up and it’s probably the only pair of bespoke shoes that was completely comfortable and didn’t give me any typeblistering on the heels during the break inprocess and this is probably one of thestiffer if not stiffest pair of bespokeshoes that I’ve picked up.

Now one of the things that you mayhave picked up on is whenever I was putting the shoes on you could actually hear the air escaping and kind of made a noise and so I have a really funny story about that that I think does such a great job to illustrate a lot ofways the indescribable essence of a bespoke pair of shoes.

And that’s I wore these shoes to my final fitting with Julien de Luca at Camps de Luca for a Stark and Sons piece that I was having made.

Julien hands me the garment, the suit, sent me into the fittingroom and I closed the curtains and then I go in and I’m changing by myself of course.

And so Julien’s waiting for meoutside and I put on my shoes and you hear the you know as the air is pushed out of a shoe that fits so tightly Julian heard that and he remarked from behind thecurtain, he said: “Ah, the sound of a bespoke pair ofshoes!”.

And so I just thought it was so great that he wasable to pick up on that you know from not even in the same room with me and it just went so far to describe one of those indescribable characteristics of a bespoke pair of shoes and that is the sound it makes whenever you put them on.

They fit so well that whenever you slide your footinto that shoe you can actually hear the air rushing out.

And so it really just kind oftickled me, if you will, to have him comment on that, and made me feelgood about wearing these shoes.

You know these bespoke Dimitri Gomez shoes are really special to me, because they, for one, were my first pair of bespoke shoes not made by Cleverley, with whom I have a fantasticrelationship.

And second they’re special because of the fact that I really had totravel out of my way to have these shoesmade.

Cleverley travels to the UnitedStates quite frequently.

If I don’t see them in London I can almost certainly see them in Dallas twice a year.

But Dimitri Gomez does not travel.

You have to go see him.

The only way that you can have apair of Dimitri Gomez shoes isn’t just going to see him once but it’s going to see him two, three, or four times so that you can perpetuate or continue that bespoke process of fittings and delivery.

These shoes really just have a special story.

I mean whenever I put these thingson I’m going to think about travelingto Paris.

I’m going to think about that time, you know, I was there with a goodfriend who helped me select this almondshaped toe.

I’m going to think about Dimitriworking with me, to really kind of craft theshape of this last and his commitment to do that despite it being the more difficult thing to do and I’m certainly going to remember sitting there at Camps de Luca putting these shoes on in thechanging room and having Julien hear them from outside.

And so those memories create such rich meaning here that I know that I’m going to think of every single time I wear theseshoes.

So I look forward to breaking theseshoes in.

I’m going to wear them for the firsttime in Dallas tonight.

I’m going to go have adrink with my wife at the Mansion and I can’t wait to wear theseabsolutely beautiful, incredibly elegant shoes.

You know I love this almond shapedtoe.

And I couldn’t be any more happy.

I look forward to seeing how theseshoes break in.

You know again they fit incredibly comfortable asit is now.

But it is a very stiff shoe because of the quality of materials that Dimitri uses.

And so I know that as they break in over the next eight to 12 weeks they’re only going tobecome even more comfortable.

Make sure that you check out thatother video from the last fitting, you’ll get to meet Dimitri and kind of see inside of his shop – incredibly special video.

And lastly if you have any questionsabout these shoes please feel free to ask them in the comments section.

I get back to all those commentsmyself.

If you liked this video, give us the thumbs up or better yet subscribe to ourchannel so that you can receive notificationswhenever we release all of our new videos and please remember to visitHangerProject.

com where you’ll find the largestassortment of luxury garment care and shoe care accessories in theworld and other products for thewell-dressed.

I’m Kirby Allison, founder of The Hanger Project, and thanks for joining us.

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