hi I’m Kirby Allison in today’s video we’re gonna review the carmina black cap toe Oxford as part of our dress shoe series today we’re gonna take a look at Spanish shoemaker carmina’s best-selling model their number 80386 black cap toe Oxford in the forest triple he last recognizing us is one of the leading authorities on luxury men’s dress shoes worldwide Carmina has graciously agreed to give us access to their entire collection of shoes to review for you on our youtube channel if you have any questions or comments please ask them in the comment section below I try to get back to as many questions personally as I can and remember subscribe to our Channel and turn on notifications so that you can learn whenever we post new videos a cap toe Oxford especially a black cap toe Oxford is the most versatile and elegant shoe a man can own it’s simple design lack of Brogan and clothes Oxford lacing combined to create a silhouette of unparalleled beauty’ this shoe is not subject to the whims of fashion and will be in style forever easily worn with the suit a tuxedo or jeans a simple black cap toe Oxford is never inappropriate in the most versatile shoe a man can own carmina’s number 80386 black cap toe Oxford respects the sacred design elements well-dressed men have come to expect in their cap toe Oxford well-balanced traditional proportions and a clean elegant pattern these carmina black cap toe Oxford Zin black box calf retail for 450 US dollars with free shipping anywhere in the United States for those who live internationally the shoes can be purchased for 395 euros on carmina’s EU website based on the Spanish island of Majorca Carmina is best known for their cult-like following amongst shoe aficionados for their ability to combine extraordinary softness and comfort with sturdy Goodyear welted and elegant last designs for those who enjoy the more nuanced elements of shoe making Carmina offers an excellent value with most of their calfskin models beginning at just 400 50 dollars with free shipping to the United States carmina shoemaker can trace its origins back to 1866 when artisan Matias puja has opened a workshop in Inka Majorca where he began crafting handmade shoes the family continued working in the shoe making industry until 1997 when pooja dozes great-grandson jose de haut realized their dream to create their own family-owned Factory dedicated to making some of the world’s finest handcrafted shoes today the company is still very much a family affair with no fewer than five family members directly involved it is important to note that because Carmina is both the factory and the brand and that the majority of their sales are direct they are able to integrate mini shoe making elements into their shoes that one would not necessarily expect to see at $450 all uppers are hand clicked the channels are closed on the out soles welts are hand fudged full leather outsoles and heel blocks are used and brass tacks are hand nailed into the toes of every pair for added durability the company also offers an extensive range of stock models and one of the easiest to use online made to order web interfaces for anyone looking to design a totally one-off shoe it is this wide range of styles and the ability to turn out a high number of individual made order shoes that is one over shoe aficionados this carmina black cap toe Oxford is built on the company’s extra-wide forests Tripoli last one of the company’s oldest and most traditional lasts the forest last has a soft round toe that gives the shoe a very conservative traditional shape this is perfect for a business shoe subtly striking and its elegance and beauty without being exaggerated or out of place with the high-gloss mirror shine it would be hard not to immediately recognize the quality of these shoes the cap is quite large and balanced with the long vamp the five eyelet in step shortens the tongue of the shoe allowing the focus to be on the vamp in the toe-cap this along gates the silhouette of the shoe and achieves a nice balance and aesthetic the upper features double stitching along the cap and around the vamp with single needle stitching along the facing of the shoe and edge of the pattern the stitching is executed with the high stitch density that elevates the finesse of the silhouette it is clearly carefully and skilfully done by hand the forest Tripoli last offers a roomier fit and more volume than the same model from other makers and even the same shoe made on other lasts the shoe features a nice square waist with good definition where the upper is pulled over the last this is one of the elements that really separates a beautiful well-made shoe from less expensive models the additional work required to pull the upper over the last helps add shape and elegance to the upper and prevents the shoe from appearing square you can really appreciate the definition that’s added to the last along the long edges of the shoe here on the exterior you can see how the upper is pulled over the last giving it definition but even more so on the inside of the edge where the upper rolls over the toe in the instep to the heel the single needle stitching across the facing of the instep features a soft arch that is elegant and easy on the eye while the vamp pattern sweeps back almost one centimetre before the beginning of the heel the quality and construction continues around the shoe to the heel the upper sits nicely and tightly on top of the heel base without any unsightly gaps between the heel and the upper the Goodyear welted ends where the waist meets the heel allowing the heel to be more precisely and tightly fit to the upper this is an important element of craftsmanship and quality that translates to a more elegant sculpted look at the heel the heel also features a nice shape and definition and a slight pinch at the top other important elements of design include decreasing with laces with the beautiful Crescent arch precise single and double needle stitch construction with high stitch density and proximity to the edge a three-piece pattern with the toe cap vamp and rear quarters waxed and polished edges and heels and a finished outsole welt fudging and a closely trimmed soul edge carmina’s black cap toe Oxford are made using black box calf or chrome tanned leather from the German tannery vine heimer leader chrome tanned leather has died and finished at the tannery which guarantees an even stable finish that you do not have to worry about fading or coming off when you polish your shoes the leather is of course opened pore and features an even grand structure the patterns are clicked or cut out by hand allowing the pattern to be positioned to avoid any undesirable blemishes that are unique to every hider full leather out soles are used with full leather heel blocks and metal toe taps can be added at an additional charge [Music] Carmina is so well known amongst shoe enthusiasts because of how well their shoes are constructed all of the elements of quality and craftsmanship that one would expect and a high quality pair of factory made Goodyear welted shoes can be found here beyond this price point you begin to hit the point of diminishing marginal return but the value here is quite exceptional first the shoe is completely Goodyear welted which is the de rigueur of high quality factory made shoes Goodyear welting is the process whereby a leather strip is sewn to a linen ribbing which is attached to the insole the outsole is then stitched to the welt this is important because a high-quality pair of shoes like these if taken care of properly will easily out last the lifetime of the outsole and heels by several orders of magnitude a high-quality leather outsole like the ones these are made with should easily yield three to five years of regular use however the upper if properly polished and not destroyed by water or snow could last twenty to thirty years what it allows us for a pair of shoes to be easily resold without disturbing the footbed the integrity fit or shape of the shoe the outsoles can be easily pulled off and new ones sewn back on by a skilled cobbler like with our kirby allison shoe restoration program carmina uses a 3/4 not a 300 60 degree weld which ends right at the heel base this is the preferred method on higher quality shoes because it allows the heel to sit more neatly on top of the heel block the outsole also features a high stitch density which further adds to the finesse of the shoe these carmina black cap toe Oxford Tsar available stock from a UK size five to a UK size 14 and both an E and a Tripoli width UK sizes are a half size smaller than the equivalent u.
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shoe size so if you are a 9.
5 and an American shoes such as an Allen Edmonds you’d want to purchase a UK nine from Carmina the only challenge to Carmina is that they don’t have an extensive brick-and-mortar network of stores here in the United States however Carmina does have a boutique in New York City as well as several boutiques throughout Europe and carmina offers free international shipping on orders over $180 and flat rate return shipping for $35 the forest Tripoli lasts on which these are made features a regular end step in more room across the four part of the foot the style 80386 is also available in the rain last and both caps can cordovan and patent leather the rain last features a slightly squared off toe which is more modern in its aesthetic compared to the forest tripoli last i really have to say that I love Carmina and can understand why they have such a strong following amongst budget conscious and quality seeking shoe aficionados Carmina is able to deliver a shoe at a higher quality than the comparable shoe from American brands because Carmina is both the factory and the brand and because a majority of their distribution is direct they’re able to pack a higher amount of quality into their shoes than what is commonly found at this price point Carmina is passionate for shoe making and everything about how these shoes are constructed and finished is superb at $450 they’re an incredible value in a shoe that anyone could be proud to wear anywhere we hope that you enjoyed this in-depth review of the carmina black cap toe Oxford and the forest Tripoli last click the link in our video description to view our full playlist of videos from our shoe review series if you enjoyed this video please visit our website hanger project comm where we have collected and curated the finest assortment of luxury garment care and luxury shoe care accessories in the world as well as other products for the well-dressed I’m Kirby Allison and we love to help the well-dressed acquire and care for their wardrobes thanks for joining me [Music].