Beckett Simonon DURANT OXFORDS Premium Dress Shoes Unboxing and Review #BeckettGents

hi everyone welcome to exchange defeat for victory my name is Joseph and I’m your host today we’re doing an unboxing and review well my first impressions of the Becket Simenon Durant oxfords these are in the Bordeaux color which is like an ox blood what you’d expect with cordovan leather a few things about Beck and Simon on they are an amazing shoe company these cost $1.

99 and worth every cent the other Beckett Simmons that I have in my shoe rotation I’ve each pair I wear my shoe rotation and they are amazing they make all my suits look amazing that you can wear them with jeans they go with pretty much everything and the beauty about these shoes is they are buy it for live shoes these are not fashion shoes not shoes that you throw out next season these are shoes that are timeless classic and I’ve done reviews for all these other shoes and if you compare them if you compare with them with brands like Allen Edmonds like this pair of Allen Edmonds you could expect to pay three hundred and twenty-five dollars for $350 for and these are the strand and I think these are really comparable to the branch Oxford’s that I’ll show you today let’s just go ahead and dig in and see what we got the first of all the box is amazing one thing about Becket Simenon use the code exchanged a few for victory you’ll get a pleasant surprise and I will also probably get a commission from that but I’ll be able to make more videos like this if you buy through the link I’ll post a link below they they cut out the middleman the way the reason why shoes like Allen Edmonds they’re very high-quality shoes but the reason why there’s such a big markup is you know the name name-brand Allen Edmonds everyone recognizes that name american-made but there’s also a lot of overhead costs they have a lot of retail stores they have to carry all this stock with Becket Simenon they’re cutting out the middleman and the way they do that is they outsource their labor to and and all their stuff is made which is so great but they outsource all their labor and then they use very fine materials the same materials you can see with Allen Edmonds shoes and you have to wait all right if you order them they’re made to order so that’s how they’re able to actually achieve these low prices they do carry a few extras on hand because they know that some people’s will be returning them for different sizes but first off high-quality box very awesome the this is full grain leather so highest quality leather you can get in shoes they they come in these beautiful bags they always come with extra insoles and these bags or microfiber beautiful they’re all made in the same places and now we get to the shoot wow that is a beautiful shoe they are blake stitched which means you can get them resold and that’s part of the buy it for life these are the types of shoes you want to get resold every pair that that I’ve ever tried on have been comfortable from the first just from the moment I put my foot in it’s as if I’ve been wearing them for a very long time there’s so there’s no break in time these are a beautiful beautiful color and I’ll take zoomed in pictures and I’ll do a little video of another semi unboxing even though I’m unboxing right now but there’s some semi broguing on the front Argentinean leather very smooth I mean you don’t have to polish them since they’re already polished but these are the types of shoes that you want to take care of you want to put you want to catch two trees so they don’t crease or creasing is minimized but when they are creasing they’re gonna develop a beautiful patina that will make it’s just the shoe will age like wine they look great with jeans or you’ll ideally want to wear with a suit but these are not types of shoes that you throw out very beautiful the other other side we’re also looking at this these nice little shoe bags there are also like I said these insoles and a Becket Simenon book on how they make their how they make their shoes and then there’s also a 20% off your next order thing and but if you use the code exchanged a fee for victory you’ll get that anyway so I’m gonna wear these put these up and there’s also an extra Sun laces I am gonna wear these in my rotation for the week and then I will report back but I have full confidence that these are going to be amazing because they’ve always been amazing and looking forward to checking back in all right so let’s check out these Becket Simmons I know I just did my first impressions but I boxed it back up and I’m unboxing it so you see exactly what you’ll be getting once you receive your amazing shoes so these are the Durrant Oxford Briggs first thing you see when you open up your box is a little booklet about their processes all their stuff is made ethically and with the highest material like the most high-quality materials get an extra pair of laces which is always a big bonus because these shoes will definitely outlast these laces the first pair of laces so these are the types of shoes that you’ll want to resole and there are extra insoles which is amazing you won’t need them because they’re comfortable right off the bat but if you do if you do have any use to them let’s say you want more comfort than your and they provide there it’s good that they just have them all right the shoes themselves are they come in these high quality microfiber bags these are the types of bags you’ll actually want to store them in or if you display your shoes you could place them almost as a as a little matte display mat the shoes themselves beautiful beautiful leather very obviously high quality handmade the interior leather is also very soft the these are these are just fantastic shoes you’re you’re gonna not you’re not going to regret buying them definitely check them out this is a this is what a shoe company should be you might you might wait a little bit because they’re made to order but totally worth it totally worth the wait you’ll want to check in with them if you’re ordering these for a wedding but order them in advance you you won’t be sorry very high quality handmade buy it for life shoes check them out I’m gonna post the link below but I highly recommend them alright so check it out day one of wearing these Durant Oxford’s warm to my office already got a bunch of compliments I’m known for wearing really nice shoes especially since I’ve been adding my Beckett seminars into my rotation but they are beautiful day one fit like a glove they it’s like walking on clouds really it didn’t put taps on totally totally forgot but I’m gonna do that after work and yeah totally check them out I’m posting the link in the description you won’t be disappointed all right so the Durant Oxford’s I’ve been wearing these every other day for the past three weeks and man they are a phenomenal shoe the the semi broguing you could dress it up or down the leather has been just there’s no break-in period so the inside leather is as soft as can be it’s like butter and for $199 it is a solid investment you won’t regret it check out the link below I’ll earn a small Commission if you buy it from my link and that’ll help me keep making these videos and not much else to be said definitely check them out that get Simenon thank you for these shoes they sent them to me to review but man I am so happy that I got to wear these check them out you won’t be disappointed you.

Pattern Making – Oxfords | I Can Make Shoes

thanks for joining us that I can make shoes today I’m going to show you how to make a pattern for a classic Oxford shoe okay so to do the Oxford pattern we’re going to need some paper craft knife a pencil scissors and eraser and a pre-taped up last

okay so if you’re unsure of how to take up the last we do have a video showing how to do that it’s really important that you leave the bottom of the last without any tape on it so what we’re going to do is we’re going to draw the

Oxford design onto the last here as you can see you can use this method to do both men’s Oxford’s and women’s Oxford’s you obviously just changed the last that you’re using so I’m going to start by drawing the design onto here and then we’ll take it from there

you all right so I have done a very basic drawing of an Oxford style shoe onto this last including a back heel cap there and I’ve also drawn in slight detail of the tongue here as well so what we want to do now is we want to just

make a few marks on here to help us at a later stage I’m going to start by on the inside here just putting a little notch in all three of these pieces just to indicate that that is in fact the inside of the shoes and that this is

of course the outside of the shoe so what we’re going to do next is we’re going to go ahead and cut that out you can also at this stage if you want to put in your eyelet holes there fee lenses you know I can very basically mark those

in now but it is a good idea to use a ruler to make sure that they’re perfectly symmetrical and even distance apart okay so I’m going to go ahead and cut that out now you all right so once you cut around all of these lines you can then

remove any excess paste on the top to reveal the shape of your shoe and what we’re going to do next is lightly peel off each piece one at a time and place it down onto the paper so I’m going to start with the front section here okay as

we place this down it’s important to stick the top line down nice and straight and then try and flatten it out as best you can you will find in some areas you’ll get some small creases and in other areas it won’t want to go down because of the

curve so in those areas we’ll just take the scissors and put a few snaps and that will help me courage the tape to lay down flat now we can see my mark here which indicates that that’s the inside of the shoe and that’ll help us remember how to

piece these pieces back together okay so I’m gonna start peeling off bit by bit all of the remaining pieces and stick them down on the paper as well it’s important that you try and give yourself some space around each piece so that we’ve got enough space to add

in certain allowances again making sure that you stick your top lines down straight first and he comes can be spread throughout the piece okay I’m just going to put that to the side now while I work with the remaining pieces again I can see my little notch there

that I put in to indicate the inside now with the top I’m just gonna peel this strip off here and I’m gonna lay that flat up in this area what that’s giving us is the length of the tongue for the time being so we’ll come back to that

in a moment and finally I’m going to take off the back section now this back section will require a slit up the back this will end up being a seam and will have helped us to get the curve at the heel of the shoe there and it also

helps us to lay this piece flat on paper and remembering a little notch there as well okay so let’s come back to the tongue for the time being what we want to do here is just extend the width of the tongue and bring it down on both sides

now you can really make this as wider as thin as you like but we need to maintain that length at the top there now I’m just also going to add about five mil excess to the bottom there okay so what we’re going to do now is we’re going

to start to add the allowances on to each additional piece okay so on each piece I’m going to add in a few allowances now this line here is where our laces would go so I’ll just draw in a few little marks there just to help us remember where

we are now we’re going to add a folded top line to the top edge of the shoe and down that edge that has the laces on them so I’m just gonna draw in approximately a five mil folding allowance there and I’m just going to bring that up and

continue it around the top line of the shoe okay so that is our folding allowance so I’m just gonna put F a in that area so that we know that that area is to be folded now along these two edges here we’re going to place other pieces on

top of them which means we need to put a small allowance as an underlay or seam allowance so I’m gonna do about a 5 mil around there as well just to keep it nice and simple so following that along the line of the pattern sometimes you might want

to do your underlay around it’s a little bit wider but that’s completely up to you as long as you keep your lines really even a neat okay so I’m going to put a ul4 underlay in that area now there’s only one more allowance to be added to this

pattern and that is on the feather edge here which is the lasting allowance so I’m going to do approximately 25 mil and it’s really important that on the pieces that have this little notch we include that into the pattern because we will actually cut that out of all

the pieces so that we can see which piece goes with which okay I’m now going to repeat that on to the other side of the pattern you okay once you have completed that on both of your sides we’re going to start working on the front section here now

this line here is going to overlap this area at the side here so we usually like to leave that as a raw edge you can if you want to fold that edge and if you did want to fold that edge you would just draw on a five mil

folding allowance there or if you wanted to do something like pinked edge you could also add in an allowance for that as well I like to keep it raw just because it reduces bulk on the overall shoe so for the sake of a super easy pattern we’re going

to leave that area raw so all this front piece needs now is a lasting allowance around that whole edge there which is the feather edge so I’m going to bring that out about 25 mil again and bring that all the way around following the line of the pattern

don’t forget to get that notch in as well all right last but not least we’re gonna work on our back section here now we do need to add a folding allowance to the top of that section there so that it flows nicely with the back of the shoe

in that area so it will add about five mil here and that will be labeled FA for folding allowance okay now on the sides you have two choices again whether you’d like to keep that as a raw edge which is what we did with the front piece or

if you’d like to potentially add a small allowance to do a pinked edge which we’ve got here or if you’d like to have a folded edge you can also add 5ml to that area but since we’ve done a raw edge at the front we will leave that raw

as well so the only other allowance that this back piece needs is our lasting allowance at the bottom here now this one’s a little bit trickier because we’ve got this slit up the back so I’ll just show you how we manage that up bringing our lasting allowance all

the way across and once you get to that v-shape you just want to completely ignore it like that so we will actually cut that V all the way up and stitch that closed now some people ask why we don’t put an allowance there if we’re going to stitch

it closed and the reason for that is because we want to make the pattern ever-so-slightly too tight so that when we stretch it over the last we get a really nice tight fit so that can now get labeled with lasting allowance okay and these pieces are ready to

cut out okay so once you’ve cut out all of your pieces it can all look a little bit confusing so the way that you sort of piece it together from there is that these two pieces go in the front since it’s an Oxford the front will overlap the

back your tongue obviously fits underneath there as well and your back piece gets stitched on top there like that and obviously on the other side as well so that’s sort of how it starts to come together I’ve obviously done all of these measurements very quickly and just by

eye so when you’re doing this yourself you might want to use a ruler to make sure that all of the lines are the same and all of the allowances that you’ve put in are the same and that they all match up and other than that that is a

completed pattern now just to make things a little bit more complicated I’m just going to place the front sections to the side and show you what we can do to make your lining a little bit easier so we know that these two go together because I’m not chose

are they’re on the same side so if I flip this around and use a small piece of masking tape I can actually combine those three pieces together and this will help me to make the back into one piece rather than three separate pieces this will just help make

the whole shoe a little bit easier to put together now it’s really important when you’re doing this that you make sure that this top line is all even and you might find that in some areas as a discrepancy where your lasting allowance doesn’t match up this probably won’t

happen if you use a ruler and do it all quite precisely but if it does happen it’s more important to have that error in your lasting allowance rather than on your top-line and much easier to correct as well so as you can see I’ve just used a few

small bits of tape to turn that piece into one piece rather than three and when you put that together with your upper and I’ll just attach the tongue in there as well you’ll see that it sort of goes together something like that to me okay thanks for watching

for more videos subscribe to our I can make shoes YouTube channel

Allen Edmonds Shoe Review | Strand Cap-Toe Oxfords

[Music] what’s good YouTube this you’re the wise bro and I’m going to do a real quick review for you guys and it’s of course on another pair of Allen Edmonds here some dress shoes some really nice dress shoes that I have fallen in love with over the years

and the shoes that I picked up at the mall of millenia let me show you guys here real quick are and here’s to receive first off before I show you the shoes these shoes here cost 395 retail I was able to pick them up for 295 with a

military discount and I also picked up two additional shoe trees along with them and also they threw out of shoehorn just for you know good luck but anyway let me show you guys real quick and the shoes that I picked up are [Music] voila you guys and I

drop the rest of us shoe on the ground pick that up real quick and they’re pretty durable so I’ll you’ll have to worry about that but here we go you guys these are the strand cap toe Oxford alright and these are a it’s a phenomenal shoe it is

a phenomenal shoe I love the lines I love the details in the shoe as you can see there are no loose strings and that’s one thing I look for when I buy a pair of nice dress shoes I see I’m looking for quality okay I’m looking for quality

the leather is very genuine as you can see very very joined enuine and when you put these shoes on I’m telling you right now it conforms to your feet it is so comfortable and you’ll never you know you you won’t have any complaints about the shoe and I

love how Allen edmundo’s the design I mean this is their intricate this is their signature here look at the details along the toe of the shoe not all of them come with that particular design but they have so many different and it’s a signature I mean when they

do it you know you’re looking at a pair of Allen Edmonds and I love the way I mean it’s so clean look at the lines everything about the shoe of them is so clean everything flows everything flows into the next part of the shoe the sole again is

very well made no hanging strings very tight-knit looks like they really put a lot of quality and time and effort in the shoe which I know they have and the sole of course is is very nice and sturdy okay and this is a I mean this is a

must I mean if you’re going to be in the business community anywhere it doesn’t have to be domestically but also be internationally you want to have a nice pair of shoes when I wear these shoes because I have four other pairs here as because you have one two

three and four and a boot I get a lot of looks I get a lot of looks people when I walk into a room the first thing they do is look down on my feet but you know in saying that you also have to be dressed you know

nicely so this is going to be this is going to really trigger the entire effect once they get down to your feet and they see that you mean business and you’ll be taking serious in the business world so anyway when you get these shoes I would recommend picking

up a shoe tree with them shoe trees help keep the form of the shoe and this is what you’re going to want to use all the tools that you’re giving here you’re going to want to use all these tools okay the bag the shoe tree and also and

also picked up an extra option free a shoehorn okay and this is a very very detail a lot of us get into the habit of just jamming our foot into the shoe and we end up tearing up the heel portion of the shoe okay that’s not what you

want to do you want to you want to use the tools that you’re given so that you can keep the integrity of the shoe you can keep the shoe in this best condition possible okay and that’s going to help the she last longer and you’re going to get

a lot more words out of it okay and here’s a bag here that they give you it’s so well made looks like it was hand woven but I know that machine did it I mean this is this is an amazing thing I mean this is this whole process

with the process that it goes through okay the bag is very nice and use the bed once you finish with the shoe and you get home in the evening pop your shoe off or take the shoe off your foot on to untie the shoelaces don’t pull down on

the heel a lot of us have a tendency to jam our other shoe into the heel of this shoe and that ends up loosening up the here with the shoe so use you know when you come home and tie the shoes unlace them properly at the top and

you’ll be good okay and it’s a little history behind it real quick these shoes I want em in actually made shoes for the Navy and are me back in World War two and they did a very very good job and they also made the class a the dresses

for the military so you’re not going wrong when you pick up a pair of Allen Edmonds I mean these shoes go a long way like I said the headquarters is out of Wisconsin um Belgium or Belgium Wisconsin and they’re still there today making shoes every day and keeping

the public happy keeping the business community happy and there you have it you guys so if you’re ever in the area if you ever see a allenham and shoe store man pick one up you will you will not be disappointed and I’m going to make awesome shoes the

sales reps are awesome very knowledgeable and just do it and I want to thank William for selling me these pair of shoes if you ever at the mall of millennium hit hit William up he’s a very good salesman and he will give you the history and the quality

that you’re looking for so hope you guys enjoyed the video remember to comment like and subscribe to my youtube channel more views to come I’m out you guys peace love and harmony 2017 let’s get [Music]

Allen Edmonds Park Avenue Cap Toe Oxford: Is It Worth It? – Iconic American Dress Shoe

Welcome back to the Gentleman’s Gazette!In today’s video, we’ll discuss whether an iconic American dress shoe, the ParkAvenue from Allen Edmonds, is worth your money or not.

Today’s video is anotherinstallment in our ongoing series, is it worth it?where we take an in-depth look at the history and quality of various menswearand luxury brands, you can find the full playlist here.

This video will focus onwhat is perhaps the standard to which all other American dress shoes arecompared, the Park Avenue from Allen Edmonds.

Before we go over the shoeitself though, let’s start with a brief history of the company.

In 1922, Elbert W.

Allen Sr.

founded a shoe company in Belgium, Wisconsin.

Ralph Spiegel was aninitial investor and partner to Allen but he was later bought out by WilliamEdmonds.

Therefore, the company was christened Allen Edmonds.

The companyquickly gained notoriety for their innovative manufacturing processes suchas removing nails and metal shanks from their construction to create a moreflexible and lightweight shoe, referred to as Osteopathic in its early years ofproduction.

The shank of an Allen Edmonds shoe would often be made of wood tomaintain durability while increasing comfort.

After providing shoes to the USArmy and Navy during World War II, Allen Edmonds gained a major following as manyof the soldiers from these branches of the military became lifelong customersof the brand.

Thereafter, founder Elbert Allen died in 1946 at which time, his sonElbert Jr.

took over control of the company.

He was followed in turn by hisbrother Boyd in 1968 and then by John Stollenwerk in 1980.

The original factoryin Belgium, Wisconsin burned to the ground in January of 1984.

Following botha literal and metaphorical rebuild, Allen Edmonds openeda factory in nearby Port Washington, Wisconsin where they still operate today.

We’re showing some photos here from Raphael’s trip to the factory but ifyou’d like to see some video footage, you can check out these offerings from theKavalier and the Elegant Oxford, here.

In 1987, the subsidiary company Woodlorewas launched, manufacturing shoe trees and other accessories.

The 1990s were aperiod of great growth and expansion for Allen Edmonds during which time, theypurchased the main shoe company of Lewiston, Maine and began to diversifytheir product range incorporating other products such as umbrellas.

In 2003, thecompany invested 1 million dollars to refit their factory in order to cut downon production costs.

This may have been assigned that the boom of the 90s wascoming to an end.

By 2006, they were again concerned with rising manufacturingcosts and wanted to enter other shoe markets.

As such, they closed theirFactory in Lewiston, Maine and opened a factory in the Dominican Republic.

Whilethe factory in Port Washington still produces the classic lines of dressshoes in house, some of the other lines such as boat shoes are now produced inthe Dominican Republic.

Additionally, some leathers for othermodels are cut in the Dominican Republic and then assembled in the United States.

Also in 2006, 90% of the company’s shares were purchased byMinneapolis based investment firm, Goldner Hawn Johnson and Morrison for100 million dollars.

In 2013, the company was acquired by private equity firm, Brentwood Associates and in 2016, Brentwood sold it to shoe conglomerate, Caleres for 255 million dollars.

The current president today is MalcolmRobinson who has previously worked for a variety of other menswear brandsincluding Phillips-Van Heusen.

Today, Allen Edmonds pride themselves on theirhistory and status as an iconic American shoe company.

Ronald Reagan, George H.

W.

Bush, Bill Clinton, and George W.

Bush are just some of the many Americanpresidents who have worn Allen Edmonds shoes and Park Avenues, in particular.

Allen Edmonds also differentiates itself from many other shoe companies byoffering a recrafting service whereby customers can send in old or worn pairsof Allen Edmonds shoes to be largely rebuilt for a fee.

As part of this recrafting, the welt will be replaced and a new cork lining inserted, the soles, heels, and laces will also be replaced and the uppers will be polished.

So long as thereare no deep cracks or tears in the leather of the uppers and linings, AllenEdmonds will generally be able to recraft a shoe two or three times.

Whileyou could, of course, take a pair of Allen Edmonds shoes to your local cobbler tobe repaired, sending it to Allen Edmonds means that the shoe will be stretchedover the original last shape again ensuring that it maintains its originaldimensions.

Despite Allen Edmond’s heritage andreputation for quality, however, they do find themselves today at a bit of acrossroads.

Their attempts in recent years to reach a younger, less formalclientele with more avant-garde designs haven’t necessarily fared well.

Thisapproach also alienated some longtime customers meaning that Allen Edmonds wassomewhat stuck in the middle.

Also, other longtime buyers and fans within themenswear community both on online forums and YouTube, among other places, havebegun to notice increasing issues with quality control.

So with all that saidthen, let’s take a look at their signature model, the Park Avenue, this isa lace-up cap toe Oxford dress shoe.

Allen Edmondsrefers to it on their website as a cap toe balmoral.

While Balmoral is a termoften used, especially in America, to refer to Oxfords, it most technicallyrefers only to a kind of boot.

You can find our article on that subject, here.

And what’s an Oxford? The shortest answer is this, Oxford shoes have a closedlacing system where the vamp is sewn on to the quarterwhereas derby shoes have an open lacing system where the quarters are sewn ontothe vamp.

If you would like to learn more about any of this terminology, you canfind our video on the differences in shoe styles here and our article on theanatomy of a dress shoe here.

Like many models of Allen Edmonds shoes, the ParkAvenues are Goodyear welted meaning that the uppers are stitched to a cork filledwelt and then to the sole.

The Park Avenue receives an assembly method thatAllen Edmonds refers to as their 360-degree bench welt construction.

A 360degree welt holds no real advantage over the more conventional 270 degree welt, interms of quality, but it does allow Allen Edmonds to more easily replace the weltand the sole when shoes are being recrafted.

The shoes feature a single oak sole with rubber top lifts on the heel, lined calfskin leather uppersmade from premium horween leather, and six pairs of eyelets for the laces.

They arewelted on the 65 last which is Allen Edmonds’ most popular shape and also usedfor many other models including the closely-relatedfifth avenue.

This particular last is known for being slightly longer than thetypical American dress shoe last adding some sleekness to the overall shape.

Withthat said though, the overall styling of the shoe is very traditionally American.

While it’s not exactly chunky or unattractive, the shape isn’t nearly asrefined as what you might see from many other British or Italian shoemakerstoday.

In addition to this, the toe cap is a good deal shorter than many otherbrands.

For today’s video, we purchased a new pair of shoes online directly fromAllen Edmonds for a retail price of $395.

We decided to go with black which isperhaps the most signature and conservative shade.

In addition to thisnew pair, we’re also featuring a pair in brown that I’ve personally owned forabout a year now.

My pair are factory seconds meaning that I purchased them ata discount with the understanding that they didn’t necessarily meet the qualitycontrol standards to be sold at full price, I got my pair for 250 dollars.

Furthermore, as I have poor balance due to a disability, I had rubber half solesadded to my shoes by a local cobbler.

Allen Edmonds does offer a variety ofother sole styles in addition to standard leather including dainiterubber.

Overall, we found the workmanship on this new pair of shoes to be of highquality.

Stitching on the uppers was uniform with a pleasing stitch densityand very few loose thread ends and the welt stitching was largely uniform witha few minor imperfections.

There was a slight notch where the weltmeets the heel on the left shoe but this wasn’t major.

The leather did havecreases or imperfections in some areas but these were all quite minor and couldlikely be covered or even removed with proper care and polishing over time.

Onesomewhat unattractive feature is the slight hump where the vamp meets the toecap, this could be mitigated during production by skiving or trimming awayat the underside of the leather at the seam to a greater degree.

The sides ofthe soles received a uniform black painting that didn’t greatly spill overonto the undersides of the soles.

My factory second pair did have moreimperfections in the leather of the uppers and the soles and some unevenstitching on the welt.

Still, this was to be expected given that they were factoryseconds and they’ve been holding up well over a year’s worth of occasional wear.

Also, here’s a brief word on the overall quality control issues we alluded toearlier, while we didn’t experience any major defects with the pair we purchasedfor today’s video and I also didn’t experience anything major with myfactory second pair, it’s becoming an increasingly shared opinion in onlinemenswear spaces that Allen Edmonds has begun to cut back on quality control tosome degree.

This should be taken with a grain ofsalt, however, as demand for premium quality calfskin continues to increaseworldwide and even reputable brands like horween can sometimes struggle to findenough perfect leather pieces for every single pair of shoes they produce.

Otherbrands, for example, fellow American company, Alden, have managed to keep uptheir extremely exacting quality standards.

With this though, their pricesare substantially higher, as much as $600 per pair and discounts on their shoesare rare.

So you may have to be a bit more cautious when buying from AllenEdmonds today but we’re not going to go so far as to suggest that the overallquality of their product has dramatically decreased.

With that saidthough, the Kavalier has also done a video on the current state of AllenEdmonds as a company today and you can find it here.

Regarding fit and comfortof the Park Avenues, we’ll start with my own personal pair since I’ve obviouslyworn them quite a bit more.

I will say that they did have a bit of a break-inperiod, perhaps two or three wears, where I did find them to be slightlyuncomfortable, particularly in the heels where I experienced some irritation andmild blistering.

After this initial break-in period though, I’ve had nofurther issues and I now find my shoes to be quite comfortable.

I wear a size 8and a half D in most dress shoes and that’s the size of both my personal pairof Park Avenues and the ones we purchased for the video.

I find that bothpairs fit relatively well though the quarters do gap somewhat and there is abit of space in the heel.

I could certainly try a different fit, in fact, one point of pride for Allen Edmonds is the wide variety of different fitoptions they offer.

Many models will range all the way from size 5 Triple Aat the smallest and narrowest to 15 Triple E at the largest and widest.

I wasfitted to a size 8 and 1/2 D, however, when I visited an Allen Edmonds storelocally so it may just be that the 65 last on which the ParkAvenue is built isn’t the ideal last shape for my foot.

As a side note here, I’ll also mention that I do own a handful of other pairs of Allen Edmondsshoes in different styles and made on different lasts and I’ve found that theinitial break-in period and overall fit of the shoe has varied somewhat frompair to pair.

After these varying break-in periods though, I have againfound that the shoes fit well overall and are generally quite comfortable.

Raphael also owns a handful of Allen Edmonds shoes, as well as boots, and hisexperience has varied from pair to pair.

Some pairs he likes more than others.

Now, for our main question of the video then, is a pair of Park Avenues from AllenEdmonds worth your money or not? Ultimately, it’s likely going to dependon your budget as well as your taste.

As we said before, Allen Edmonds currentlysells Park Avenues on their website for a retail price of $395 though they dooften run sales so you should be able to find them for less.

The shoes are wellmade with no major flaws and a durable construction.

If you properly care forthem and wear them in rotation with other shoes, they should last you for agood many years.

Remember also that you can send them back to the factory inPort Washington for around a hundred to a hundred and fifty dollars per pair tohave them re– crafted extending their life even further.

Even so, their overalllook is definitely conservative and not quite as elegant as some other Britishor Italian models that you might find today.

If you’re looking for a moreflattering silhouette at a similar price point, you might want to considerspending your money elsewhere.

Speaking personally, I don’t mind the slightlystodgy or old-fashioned silhouette of the shoes, in fact, I find some moremodern European models to be too bold so this isn’t a downside for me.

If youhaven’t purchased from Allen Edmonds before and you’d like to try out some oftheir styles including the Park Avenue, you might want to do as I didand try factory seconds first.

Currently, seconds aren’t available on the AllenEdmonds website all the time but you will find them occasionally.

If you dodecide to sign up for their email list, they’ll notify you when seconds go onsale.

So while they may not be the most elegant dress shoes on the market todayand quality control is perhaps a bit more of a gamble than it was in pastyears, the models from Allen Edmonds and the Park Avenue in particular stand asquality American dress shoes.

They’re durable, comfortable, recraftable, andmade in the USA with a few exceptions on each of these points.

Are they the bestshoe on the market today? Not necessarily but they are a dependable shoe thatshould serve you well as a sort of base model and for that reason, we think theyare worth it.

in today’s video I am of course wearing a pair of Allen EdmondsPark Avenue cap toe Oxfords.

these are the brown models that I’ve had for abouta year now.

to go for a more conservative and traditional look I’ve chosen to pairthem with a charcoal Brown suit that features a fine pinstripe in tan andlight blue the jacket is ventless and the trousers have pleats as well assuspender buttons as such I’m wearing suspenders today which happen to also beblue harmonizing with the overall yellow and blue color palette which I’ve gotgoing I’m also wearing a pastel yellow dress shirt with French cuffs in whichI’m wearing the gold-plated sterling silver Eagle Claw cufflinks from FortBelvedere featuring lapis lazuli as the stone the cufflinks harmonized well withmy other accessories which are also from Fort Belvedere these include myboutonniere which is an Edelweiss model my socks which are Shadow striped modelsin navy and yellow my madder silk tie also in navy with a repeating diamondmotif in red buff and orange and my silk wool blend pocket square in a colorwe’re calling antique gold ochre featuring a pattern of printed geometricmedallion in beige red and blue with a creamcontrast edge you can find all of the accessories I’m wearing in today’soutfit including the cufflinks tie pocket square boutonniere and socks inthe Fort Belvedere shop.

Những phong cách cơ bản với quần short nam có thể bạn chưa biết

Những phong cách cơ bản với quần short nam có thể bạn chưa biết. Có mặt trên thị trường rất lâu những chiếc quần short có cặp đi yêu mến của tôi quần short cho mùa hè, Tôi cực kì phấn khích lúc được hợp tác với trong video này giả dụ người mua là thường xuyên ở đây các chàng trai công sở đã biết những gì nó như luôn luôn nhỏ bé giọt trong mọi thứ.

Tôi chỉ mặc một tee cơ bản tiện nghi nhét vào những chiếc quần short màu xám từ everlean và dừng thành quả nhìn với túi xách da nam cao cấp của mình từ studio trang phục là một thành tựu chung hơn ví dụ về thành lập cá nhân tôi sẽ phong cách quần short vững chắc một vật phẩm gì đấy một chút đặc thù nhưng vẫn thiết thực cho đi lại hàng ngày sự thương mến thực tế của những quần short là như vậy và màu xám màu sắc sẽ liên kết rẻ chiếm hữu khá bình thường bất cứ điều gì áo sơ mi oversize là chắc chắn mùa hè này ở đâu vậy thành phầm nhìn thiết bị nhì tôi muốn chơi lên tamil mặc thành tích váy quá khổ tiết kiệm này áo đi cùng chiếm hữu đá quần short màu từ everlean và item gắn bó sở hữu cộng đồng rung cảm tôi ném vào guồng của tôi vì đồng minh mọi vật dụng giày tây cao nam cao cấp màu trắng và dừng tắt tác phẩm nhìn có 1 số tuyên bố chưa chạm tinh tế mang các điều này và tất nammũ nam trông số nhị là 1 thực sự lựa tậu ở giữa đẹp và trang phục không quá giản dị mà cũng không quá ăn mặc phụ kiện nhìn này là 1 tác phẩm mang thể tiện nghi đi từ ngày tới đêm và màu đá của quần short khiến cho mùa hè tuyệt vời

Tôi chỉ thật lòng yêu các mảnh ghép của họ nhưng mà tôi yêu anh em thẩm mỹ của nhãn hàng của họ và tôi chỉ ko thể nên họ đủ để những gì điều đó được đề cập rằng tôi đoàn kết ba sắm người mua hôm nay mỗi nhà cửa nhìn rất khác biệt video hôm nay tôi sẽ chạy người mua thông qua mỗi bộ trang phục, đó là thành tựu chia sẻ mang người mua như thế nào cá nhân tôi sẽ phong cách quần short toàn vẹn mọi trang bị và chỉ sản phẩm cho quý khách giai đoạn suy nghĩ của tôi lúc đề cập tới việc kết hợp của tôi cách thức và bầy đàn các đồ vật tốt đấy yeah như tôi đã nhắc ba vẻ như vậy nhưng không mang ado ngồi lại lấy ấm cúng hãy lấy vào nó quý khách đã biết tôi là gì luôn luôn ở đây thể thao 1 chiến thắng áo khoác như vậy cho mùa hè tôi muốn thử 1 thành công gì đó một chút không giống nhau và đá chúng sở hữu quần short cùng sở hữu cái áo cộc tay của tôi.  Lựa mua dòng nhìn sau cùng này là sở thích cá nhân của tôi và tôi là người rộng rãi nhất khuấy động cái áo lấy cảm hứng từ thực dụng này từ Zara chỉ chiếm hữu một tee cơ bản dễ chơi câu kết với cộng 1 màu xám quần short nạc từ nhà cửa nhìn số một tới thành tích duy trì cái nhìn tha hồ phải chăng đẹp này tôi tát vào một trong các cặp đống ý của tôi giày thể thao nhưng chút của một chiếc mũ da lộn màu xanh hải quân này trang phục là vật dụng tôi sẽ mặc khi tôi chỉ hưởng thụ chillin khiến một sản phẩm gì đấy vô cùng giản dị như brunch cho bất kỳ người  lấy cà phê có số đông hoặc gia đình ko chỉ khiến mọi thứ quần short trông đẹp và tán thành hoàn hảo nhưng họ cảm thấy như vậy thấp và họ hoàn toản phụ kiện ví da nam cao cấp hay chiếc thắt lưng da bò đẹp mang phần căng ra mang họ sẽ là cực kì lanh lợi cho mùa hè và đó là cho bờ hồ nóng nhất của tôi giới thiệu mọi ngõ ngách chờ đợi người dùng rất thích video hôm nay làm tôi ủng hộ và thả bình luận xuống bên dưới trong bình luận phần và cho tôi biết trong số hầu hết ba chiến thắng nhưng mà bạn có thể thấy bạn dạng thân nam giới đanh đá vì tôi muốn biết và tôi chỉ thích nghe từ khách hàng .

Are Wholecuts The Perfect Dress Shoe | 5 Reasons To Buy Wholecut Leather Oxford Shoes

[0:00:00]Hi.

I’m Antonio Centeno.

I’m the founder of Real Men Style.

And today, gentlemen I’m going to be talkingabout the wholecut oxford.

Is it the perfect dress shoe? Guys, all the samples and everything I’llbe showing you in the support article and throughout this video are going to be comingfrom Paul Evans.

They’ve been a sponsor for well over a year.

Get ten pairs of their shoes and I have tosay their modern wholecut oxford is – it’s a beautiful shoe.

They’ve got in three different colors.

Go check them out, but let’s get into thedetails.

So, there are three defining characteristicsof a wholecut oxford dress shoe.

In addition, I’m going to give you fivereasons why you should consider this being one of the shoes in your wardrobe.

It’s not going to probably be the firstshoe that you’re going to want to own, but definitely maybe the third, fourth, fifthshoe that you decide to add to your classic wardrobe.

Okay, guys.

So, the three characteristics.

Number one is it’s made from a single pieceof leather, so that’s why it’s called the wholecut and that its defining characteristic.

Notice how it’s smooth all the way ‘tilwe get to the back, it’s got that stitching right in here.

In addition, it’s a closed lacing system.

So, what that means is it is the dressiestof all of the lacing systems simply by the simplicity and the elegance of it, it’salso going to be a dressier shoe.

And, I’ll get into those details here ina second, but those two things are defining characteristics.

And finally, because it is so simple it’sgoing to have a more elongated look.

So, if you want your feet to look thinnerand longer, this is going to be the best shoe for that.

Okay? So, let’s talk about the five reasons thatyou should consider having the wholecut dress shoe in your wardrobe.

Number one is going to be versatile.

So, what I like about this is you can dressit up and you can dress it down depending on the color.

If I went with a solid black, I could actuallywear this with black tie.

Now, bring it down all of a sudden if I wentwith brown such as I have here, I can wear this with pretty much any type of businesscasual outfit that has a jacket.

And that – that’s probably the one ruleI do and where it is limited in its versatility is I feel it’s a shoe that should be wornwith a jacket.

So, the outfit I’m wearing right here, It’sa dressy shoe and that gets us to point number two.

The minimalist design.

So, because the minimalist design is actually, again, it’s going to be very versatile, but it’s also is going to be something that’sgoing to draw attention to itself, but it’s going to do that in a good way.

A lot of times men are wanting to draw attentionto their shoes and they’re going to wear something that has, you know, a lot of maybecolor on it or something has a lot of texture.

Because of the minimalist design because thesimple nature of it, that by itself is going to draw attention and I think is one of thedefining characteristics.

Point number three, the high quality leather.

So, as I’ve talked about its made and itsdefining characteristics, it’s cut from a single piece of leather.

Now, if we take a hide and we look at it, the key with this is that there can be no blemishes or no mistakes on the leather, sowhat does that tell me? That it’s going to be a better quality cut.

When it comes to other types of shoes andI got a wide variety.

You see like a calf toe made for, you know, with various parts right here.

They can actually take smaller parts, so ifthey get a hide that has some blemishes on it, they can kind of piece around those blemishes, they can’t do that with a wholecut.

So, basically, that’s why you’re alsogoing to see it will be a little bit more expensive and only on higher-end shoes issimply because you take that quality piece from the hide that’s relatively large.

Point number four is they’re easy to maintain.

So, I was bringing it up here, but if you’vegot something that has a bit of broguing in it or, you know, all these other designs.

When you’re applying polish when you’recleaning, you’re having to kind of dive in there sometimes with various brushes, sometimessome of the polish is going to get in there.

Same thing with the calf toe, you’re goingto – I know, whenever I’m cleaning them I always got bits that get stuck in there.

With the wholecut, it’s just one piece andyou can get in there easy maintenance.

And, number five is it conforms to the feet.

So, with the whole piece of leather, whatyou’re going to find is after multiple wears, it will expand slightly.

So, what does this tell me? Whenever I’m buying a pair, buy maybe alittle bit closer, it’s okay if it fits a little bit snug.

Same with Western boots, it’s actually goingto expand out just a bit and conformed to your feet and you’re going to actually geta better fit.

Now, with those five positives, they alsocome a few things you got to be careful of.

So, be aware that it’s usually going tobe a more narrow cut.

In addition, after you’ve worn the shoefor, you know, hundreds of times you’re going to start to see definitely some creases.

I think creases are sign of you just wearand tear good quality especially if you’re taking care of and you’re conditioning theshoe, but just be aware that you will start to see creases in the shoe.

So, guys that’s my opinion of a wholecut.

I think it is possibly one of the, if notthe perfect dress shoe.

You can dress it up, you can dress it down.

Let me know what you think in the commentsdown below and go check out Paul Evans.

Like I said, I’ve got about ten pairs inmy wardrobe of their shoes.

It’s a great company, I’m happy to havethem as a supporter.

And, guys I’ll see you in the next video.

Take care.

[0:05:30] End of Audio.

How A Mens Dress Shoe Should Fit & How To Find The Right Shoe Size Online & In Store

Welcome back to the Gentleman’s Gazette! Today’s video is all about dress shoes andhow you can find the right fit, what constitutes a good fit, and how you determine your propersize.

In recent years, buying shoes online has becomevery popular.

Originally, people thought “How can I buya shoe that I’ve never tried on that actually fits properly?”.

Now, even if you’re at a store in your try on shoes, you might not find some that fit because atthe end of the day, all that matters is the last, its shape, and the size, and whether it works for your foot or not.

Humans are an asymmetrical bunch.

For example, look at me, my right shoulderis a lot lower than my left one and because of that, the arm is a different length andit’s the same for your hands, for your face, and for your feet.

The left side is never like the right one.

The solution to that problem would be thatevery man out there gets a pair of bespoke shoes.

The problem with that is it costs about $2, 000for one pair and it’s simply not something the majority ofmen out there can afford.

That’s where off the rack shoes come intoplay; they’re nicely finished on an elegant last with high-quality leather, hand polishedand burnished, at just a fraction of what a bespoke shoe would cost you.

For example, look at these shoes by Ace Marks, they cost $300, they’re made in Italy from high-quality leather, they use a rather flexible Blake rapid stitch sole and the insideis cushioned with some foam between the leather, that way, you just have a very comfortablefeel.

On top of that, their last is well thoughtthrough and it fits my foot really really well.

It’s a medium D width and it’s slim in theheel, it hugs my foot in the middle, and overall, the fit for me is very close to a custom shoeeven though it just costs a fraction.

So today’s video is brought to you by AceMarks and all the shoes you can see here are from them.

So how do you find a pair of shoes that fitsyou really really well? First of all, let’s talk about what a goodfit constitutes and then let’s talk about sizing.

In my opinion, the most important part forfit of a shoe is the middle part.

You want it to really fit snugly around yourfoot so it holds it in place even without you having to tie your shoelaces.

At the same time, you want the front partof your foot to have enough room in the front and be neither too wide or too slim at theside.

When you walk, your foot gets longer and shorterand because of that, you want about half an inch to an inch or one to three centimetersin front of your longest toe inside the shoe so you compensate for the movement and you’realways comfortable.

So what’s right? The perfect width of the last is the one thatjust hugs you without being too tight or too loose.

Another important aspect of the fit of theshoe is the vamp.

If there’s too much space between the vampand your foot, you’ll easily see wrinkles in the leather and it’s also more uncomfortableto walk in them.

Ideally, you want the leather to be very closeto your foot without it being too tight and uncomfortable for you.

Finally, my pet peeve with most ready to wearshoes is the heel.

Most shoe company is designed so it’s veryroomy and wide so it fits every kind of shoe, however, I find it’s very important that it’svery close to your heel because that way, it hugs it, you’re not gonna slide out whenyou walk, and it’s a lot more comfortable to wear a shoe that way.

Because of that, all bespoke shoes are alwaysvery tight and so whenever I slip into a shoe that has a tight heel, I immediately feellike oh wow this is more like a custom shoe.

Also to keep the shoe in shape, you have capsin the front and in the back.

Most of the time, heel caps are stiffer thanthe front caps and some are really stiff and uncomfortable.

So if your heel doesn’t fit a hundred percentin there, it’s gonna hurt and you may end up with blisters.

These shoes here are quite nice in the sensethat the heel is not too wide, the cap gives stability but it’s not too hard, and the leatheris really soft so there’s some room for different heels and different sizes.

Now with the lace-up shoe, you always havethe benefit of having laces that keep things in place but you don’t want things to be tootight.

When a shoe is new and the leather is unstretched, you will likely see a slight v-shape in between the laces in an Oxford that should close overtime.

Too much of V shape means that you need tolast that’s slightly bigger or maybe you just have a bigger foot.

Now, if you have laces you can get away witha fit that is maybe just 90 or 95 percent versus if you go with a slip on or a loafershoe such as this penny loafer from Ace Marks, you have to get a fit that is much betterbecause you don’t have laces that help you.

Again, it’s super important on a loafer thathugs you tightly around here and that the heel isn’t too wide otherwise, your feet willslide out all the time.

With new shoes, when in doubt always go slightlyin a smaller side with a slip-on shoe because you don’t want them to come loose and otherwise, you won’t be able to wear them at all later on.

So one of little secret that you don’t hearabout very often is that when you remove the shoe and you get that sound like the releaseof a vacuum, that’s a good indicator that you have a tight fit.

On a bespoke shoe that’s usually what youget and it’s also a little more difficult to take them off so if you experience that, chances are this shoe fits your foot quite well.

So now that you know how a shoe should fitproperly, how do you find the proper size? Of course, it sounds very simple and you justhave to measure your feet before you buy.

The problem is your left foot is not justdifferent than your right foot but the size of your foot also varies throughout the daywith a swelling and depending on how much you walk.

For most people, the feet are biggest in theevening so that’s a good time when you should measure your shoes or go and buy shoes.

Goes without saying that you should alwaysmeasure both feet because sometimes people have more than a size difference between leftand right.

In the US, the most common sizing system isthe Brannock system.

You can find these metal sizers in shoe storesall across the US or you can buy them on Amazon for about 60 to 65 bucks.

That device is very simple you just step intake the reading of the width as well as your length based on your big toe.

Now, most people don’t have a device at homeand because of that Ace Marks provides you with a letter-sized and a din a4 format shoesizer that you can just print out at home.

We will provide you with the different linksin the print out below and once you have that, you simply take it, you tape in the middle, you check the size either with a dollar bill or with a credit card because sometimes printersare calibrated in a weird way that makes things print bigger or smaller and that would ofcourse throw off the sizing.

Once you have it though your heel must beon the line.

I always suggest to take a big book put itdown.

That way you can’t slide back then you standthere and then you take a pen and mark it slightly facing inward where your big toeis and that way you determine your size, do it on both feet and you know exactly whatsize you should get.

What I’ve found over time is that a lot ofshoe companies have different sizes within their own brand, meaning, different lastshave different sizes and I had ten, ten and a half, and eleven in one brand; now that’snot helpful at all and it always meant I had to buy shoes, return them, try them on again, and it’s just a big hassle.

What I like about Ace Marks is that theirsizing conforms to the US Brannock system so it’s all in line and if you know what yourBrannock size is, you know Ace Marks is going to fit.

While it’s possible to determine the rightsize of your foot with a print out at home, I suggest to have someone help you just tomake sure it’s 100% accurate.

Now if you don’t have a printer, what youcan do is to trace the outline of your foot with socks and make sure to hold the pen slightlyinward so you get a neat tight outline of your foot.

Once you have that, you measure it from thelongest point of your heel to your big toe.

With that measurement, you can check out thesize chart in centimeters or inches on the ACE Marks website and you can exactly determinewhat US Brannock size you are.

When you do this, make sure you stand becausethe size can be different than when you sit.

Personally, I wear a size 11 and a half USon the US Brannock system and it works quite well for me.

The Ace Marks come in a medium D width andoverall, they hug the middle part of my toe, they leave enough room for my toes, and theyreally are good around the heel.

Lets you measure and you come up inbetween sizes, I suggest you simply get both sizes have them shipped to you at home, thenyou can try them on on a carpet or a rug so they don’t scratch the bottom and you cansend the pair back that doesn’t fit you and thatway, you make sure that you get the best size for your foot.

When it comes to the width of the shoe, mostmanufacturers have numbers so A means it’s a slimmer width, D usually is a medium width, and E or EE or F are larger widths.

The problem is this is not a uniform standardand so you have to look at each individual brand and determine what is wide and whatis slim and how wide or how slim they are.

So with the US Brannock system device or theprintout, you can also determine your width in medium, wide or extra wide.

All you have to do is align the outside ofyour foot or the inside at that line and then you just take the measurement on the otherside.

in today’s video I’m wearing a tweed sportcoat in brown it’s a Donegal tweed and it’s perfect for fall/winter I’m combining it witha light blue and blue striped twill shirt with button barrel cuffs and a medium spreadcollar the tie you see is a olive green cris de la soi knittie from Fort Belvedere which you can find in our shop here just like thepocket square which is a printed silk Paisley pocket square in light blue blue with blackfrom Fort Belvedere and it’s printed in England it’s nice because it picksup the colors of my shirt but it pops on my jacket the skacks I’m wearingare part of a navy suit they have turnups they were custom made for me and they havea rougher heavier fabric and because of that they drape nicely my shoesare a pair of medium brown Oxfords with half broguing which meansit’s a cap toe with broguing it’s a very versatile shoe that I like a lot for travel and of courseit’s from Ace marks it’s quite comfortable it’s a Blake construction which means it’sa thinner sole a much more flexible sole so if you have issues with Goodyear welted shoesbecause they’re too hard definitely check out Blake rapid orBlake stitch the last is quite elegant classic and round and I think for $300 they’re reallygreat buy as you can see the shoes are hand polished and handburnished which takes much longer is more expensive but it results into a much nicerlook because you have different rates of brown on top of the leather and it helps to createreally nice and rich patina the socks I’m wearinghere from Fort Belvedere they are shadows striped in navy and yellow sothey work with the pants but contrast the shoes and overall create a nice look that’sinteresting and different from the standard plain sock last but not least I have a pinkyring in silver with a malachite stone which is greenwhich picks up the green in my tie if you enjoyed this video you want to learn moreabout shoes please subscribe to our Channel and hit that little belt so you’re notifiedwhenever we have a new video popping up in our Channel.

AVOID THIS LEATHER! BUYING LEMONS & A PROPER USED SHOE RESTORATION

[Music] hey everybody its Preston from the alley and Oxford today’s video is a little different than most I’m gonna be narrating here in person I want to talk about how you can differentiate between good leather and poor leather when you are thrifting or buying a new pair of

shoes as you can see these two shoes have creases they’re both used but there’s a difference between these two pairs one has really good leather and one has leather you want to avoid so today I’m going to be talking about that and other neat tricks and tips for

taking care of your shoes as you can see both of these shoes have creasing along the vamp and in other areas but when buying used shoes it’s important to stick to full grain calf shoes a full grain is the best type of leather by far and to avoid

bookbinder or corrected grain calf now corrected grain calf or bookbinder leather is leather that has been sanded down all the way even past the pores and then covered with an acrylic type of plastic finish to give it a very shiny appearance okay but it’s not good because once

the pores have been sanded down and the acrylic finish has been applied the shoe will not absorb moisture or pigment or anything like that so the shoe is just this this is what it looks like and it’s not good because once it creases there’s no way to fix

it and if you’re not careful it’ll begin to crack and then there’s no way you can save the shoe has to be tossed so be really careful when buying shoes and avoid bookbinder leather so bookbinder was really popular in the 90s unfortunately once it starts to crease there’s

absolutely no way to fix and unlike full grain calf so the shoes are this way and if you buy really cheap bookbinder it’ll begin to crack and that’s it the she has to be tossed it cannot be fixed unfortunately bookbinders often confused with shell cordovan and it’s ironic

because shell core turbine is a 500 otter pair of shoes or more while bookbinders potentially just $5 pair of shoes they used markets so be really careful some people either on purpose or not posts bookbinder as shell cordovan online so be really careful when shopping because it’s really

shiny and some people get confused and think it’s shell cordovan okay remember cordovan is not a color cordovan is a type of material name so after the birthplace of shell cordovan which is Cordoba Spain so even though shoes burgundy and purple and looks like shell cordovan it is

not shell cordovan shell cordovan comes in brown green blue and a host of other colors just just be careful when you’re shopping online and avoid bookbinder now before I continue because I know I’m gonna get this comment somewhere I am NOT making fun of anyone who owns a

pair of bookbinder shoes or prefers bookbinder I think it’s fine if that’s all you can get or if that’s what you like there’s absolutely no problem I’m just going over why I don’t like bookbinder and why I think a full green cap is superior and I’ll be restoring

both pairs so you can see okay full green cap on the other hand you can see there are some creases here but these are just actually it’s more the more the factory finish right here just creasing a little bit but this can all be fixed the full grain

calf absorbs moisture pigment and everything else so it’s great make sure you buy your shoes in full grain calf and avoid a bookbinder so this shoe is gonna look basically brand new when I’m done and you’ll see the difference now spotting bookbinder at first can be a little

bit tricky and I usually tell people just to be cautious and to look for the tell-tale signs of bookbinder if it’s extremely shiny all over like that it’s probably bookbinder okay so usually normal full grain calf isn’t this shiny okay because this is because the acrylic plastic you

finish on of the shoe a normal calf will not shine like this especially if on flex points even I can’t do that with a mirror shine cuz the wax will crack okay so look for that and look for these heavy creases these nasty unfixable creases and you should

be fine for the most part so just avoid the tilt oh you can actually see it right here there’s a pretty bad grease right here and that’s the plastic finish which is which has done that okay so maintaining a corrected grain or bookbinder leather shoe is quite simple

you use a shoe tree like that okay and then you’re gonna dust it off with a damp towel okay so here we go a little bit of dampness right here just go over it just to get off the excess dust and debris you can brush it too but

with bookbinder i found that a little bit of moisture in a towel goes a long way so just get get as much as you can off and i found that using a brush doesn’t really work with bookbinder it leaves nasty streaks because the pigment doesn’t really get absorbed

and the moisture and then the cream doesn’t really go anywhere so it just ends up getting streaked over the top of the shoe so I’m just removing you know a little bit of dust and debris tongue right here and then you’re gonna add a little bit of light

conditioner and we’ll do that right now okay so I found Sofia rent of a tour works but you just need a tiny bit a little tiny tiny bit on your finger you just rub it in like that okay and this will help a little bit unfortunately I can’t

dye the shoes or anything like that because it won’t it really won’t absorb into the leather at all so there we go just to clean off the surface and – that should be sufficient so I’m going to go over the both pairs and then we will buff it

with a cloth all right just for just for good measure I’m gonna put some colored cream on these shoes just to show you that it doesn’t take so here’s a little bit of Wardell it’s a fear of creamy I’m gonna stick that on there like that as you

can see it doesn’t do anything it doesn’t get absorbed the pigment just stays on top worth is to be regular calf it would have gone in and there would have been some pigment into the leather especially because of fear penetrates leather so well so you can see there’s

really nothing to be done about this area right here just use a shoe tree and mitigate creasing and extreme folds but for the most part that’s all you can do now it’s time to buff them off just go over it with pressure and with speed to create friction

and to get to get that shine to come out okay alrighty so so they look they look better okay not perfect but that’s how you maintain them all so let’s use some edge dressing just to see needs just to recolor it right there alrighty just give it that

new appearance you’re fine alright let’s keep going okay now on to the full grain calf shoes insert a good shoe tree in there okay seen that already mitigates a lot of the issues ok so you can see the other one right here good solid shoe tree already it’s

in and we’re seeing a immediate reduction of creasing okay so let’s get some acetone on these okay I know some of you have expressed concern about using acetone so I have I do use butyl gloves and they’re chemical resistant and everything else just literally melts in ten seconds

so if you use latex or anything like that it’s gonna melt right away so I’m just gonna use a bit of acetone to remove some of the factory finish because it’s already starting to fold and crack so a little bit of acetone just go over it like that

okay you’re already looking as you can see the crease things already been reduced a lot okay so okay you can see the creasing there down here see that old factory finish is coming off and we’re seeing an immediate immediate reduction in nasty creasing excessive creasing and we’re showing

off the full grain cap underneath okay it’s just a little bit to get off through the factory finish all right now we give them a good brush remember there’s no pigment in run of a tour so it’s not gonna look as great as when I add some black

it’s a black shade right as you can see the shoes already look almost brand new I mean within reason they look like they’re not the same shoes we’ve started so here’s the other get that brushed off all right okay then we’re gonna add some black pigmented we just

get a cloth around my fingers just to restore that dark there we go see how much better it’s gonna look fast okay okay so you let the cream drive for about five minutes you can do more you can even do overnight some people like to do that but

five minutes and then actually get this question a lot should I use a black brush for black creams and you can if you don’t want to cross-contaminate I usually don’t but I think I should probably start lessons on the shining more shoes and I ever have so just

brush them some good pressure here and you’re gonna want to go kind of fast to create friction and then bring out that shine [Music] so you can see the shoes are looking way better you can even just probably stop here if you wanted but the owner wants a

mirror shine of course and I’m gonna give it to him so look at that shoes look way way way better all right time for that mirror shine I’m using a dark navy if you’ve watched my other video I explained why I like dark navy over black wax for

mirror shines it gives the appearance of blacker than black so here we go now just make sure to add an even amount of wax in the circular motions okay and then just add a little spray bottle or whatever you’d like a drop of water like that then you

keep going okay repeat this process over and over and over and over and you will get a mirror shine and some shoes cooperate some shoes take 10 minutes some take hours I just gotta be patient keep adding wax if I’m lucky you’ll start to see a mirror shine

develop right here okay Zac she had a really awkward ankle cuz I’m kneeling at my coffee table so I’m usually sitting down when I do mirror shine so this is not a really good angle for me that’s why it was always hard for me to get a mirror

shine when I do this I think it’s coming through okay you know what let me okay water keep going sorry I just turned the manual focus on so it stays on that cap so you can see it start coming through okay all right just be patient you can

already see some coming through there we go one more bit of water we should start again yeah so I’ll keep going until I get a mirror shine then I’ll be back so we can do a comparison and the final the final explanation okay so we’re all done the

creases could not be removed it’s part of the finish of the leather and it’s just not possible to remove so this is how this shoe is gonna look I’m using a good shoe tree will mitigate creasing but for the most part you’re gonna have this really shiny plasticky

appearance which some are okay with but I don’t personally like and here’s the full grain calf model pair of Allen Edmonds Park Avenues in black did a quick mirror shine took me about 20 minutes and I think it looks great the the creases are pretty much gone I

think everything looks really great I mean they’re still there obviously but they’re they look a lot better so overall I think the shoe came out great and it goes to show that if you go to a thrift shop and you find a pair of shoes make sure that

they are full grande calf and then you can shine them restore them and make them look a lot better okay and I think that’s just the best way to go about it I hope that’s helpful to everyone here I know there have been a lot of questions about

what to look for when you go to a thrift shop how to find the right shoe so just as a review avoid bookbinder or corrected grain leather avoid that shiny plasticky appearance and go for full grain calf shoes hope that helps everyone thank you so much for watching

if you’ve enjoyed this video please like subscribe and share you can find me on instagram and facebook at the elegant oxford links to my pages are in the description of this video remember always put your best foot forward the small details matter most so don’t forget to hashtag

shine your shoes see you next time

Know Your Shoes : the Oxford

gentlemen welcome for this new episode of our video series called SATA wall talks [Music] today we’ll have the pleasure to welcome you in a very special place first of all the building where we are is called Ponce city markets is located in Atlanta in Georgia the United States

of America and this place which was open a little bit less than two years ago has become very quickly one of the must-see and must go place in Atlanta because they try to recreate in this city the ambience and the warmth of a European market so we are

quite proud to be in this place today and specifically in this shop Cobb reunion is also a very good example of what is happening currently in the world of luxury men’s shoes a little bit of history so in the late 1990s the shoe market for men was easy

to understand on one hand you had bad quality shoe for people who were wearing shoes because they needed to have something on their feet in order to walk in the street but I have no aesthetic and on the other hand you had wealthy people were educated in the

subject who were buying the high brand and the very very good quality shoes but they were unaffordable like veloute in front like journal AB like this kind of brown who were from the vast majority of the people unaffordable in terms of prices I used to go remarkable this

is where the veloute shop was historically located the first Berluti shop and I was going there on Sundays to look at the windows and to admire this amazing shoes for example the Lutie had the first hole cut the hole cut shoe is just a shoe which is which

has only one cat that is to say one cut nothing else this this shoe was absolutely it was called alessandro was absolutely gorgeous but it was the cost of the issue was at the time 5000 french francs to give you a reference the average salary of a man

in France back in these years was something around 3,500 to 4,000 Frankenmuth at these very pair of who was more expenses than what more expensive than the salary of a normal person in France of course I didn’t have the means to buy this shoe so this is why

I was going on Sunday because staying two hours in front of a window at mine your shoe when there’s people inside the shop can be a little bit embarrassing at least on some day I was not embarrass and I could stay hours in front of this shop to

look at those shoes the internet changed the whole picture why and this is the paradox of the internet that the Internet can be looked upon something very technological very quick where people don’t really dig inside subject and just Bros pictures etc but on the other side a lot

of sectors and domain like shoe making for example to Reba come interesting for the people in now you have an enormous crowd of gentlemen of all ages and specifically young gentlemen who have a renewed interest in the world of shoemaking and in the world of luxury shoe and

cobbler Union is a good example of this movement because now more and more around the planet you can find affordable shoes made according to the Gospel of shoemaking by artisans and now the gentleman who is interested in quality shoes can can afford these shoes and can have a

collection of shoes and can make a statement with beautiful shoes so something is happening in this market which is probably one of the most dynamic market in the fashion industry since the last decade and as far as I know and it’s the first time in history that men

shoes may be a little bit more dynamic than women shoes globally so it’s an interesting market and cover Union is a good example of what is happening so we would like to take this opportunity to be in such a shop which presents a lot of classic shoes to

do a special episode or series of special episodes about the from kind of shoes and to start with for this first episode we’re going to speak specifically about the most classical the ultra classical shoe for men which is called an Oxford and an Oxford it’s actually an extension

of something else that was used before the in the before the middle of the 19th century Sonya yes in fact back in the 1840s and earlier only boots were worn with suits no one wore shoes with with suits and that’s precisely because the road were in such bad

form in fact we call them dirt roads in the south everything including a storefront property had no sidewalks so the boot was worn with the suit here we have what we call today a Balmoral boot but we can say that this barbegal boot might be the ancestor of

what we call today an Oxford so you understand we’ve been switching from this which is coming back in fashion these days but I will explain more why later but that was the original one and it became the low shoe like that because year after year the pavement have

been built and it was easier to walk industries so what I show you here it’s what we call an Oxford I don’t know why in America it’s also called a Balmoral which is a misuse a little bit of the word because a bomber role is something a little

bit more specific that I will explain to you later that is named after the castle of Balmoral which is since mid 19th century one of the favorites vacation residence of the British royal family the castle of Bergamo what I have in my hand is a classical Oxford what

is an Oxford it’s a simple pair of shoe mostly formal in which you have eyelets that are directly inside the vamp of the shoe so it’s easy to understand what I have in my hand it’s actually called today an austerity bra and once again it’s bizarre how we

use the words because it’s what we call a blog is a shoe it has perforation on it and this one has no perforation so by default we call it austerity broad means abroad without perforation is like saying the car without wheels but that’s another story so this is

the basic of the basic which has been named after the Oxford University and according to the sources has been invented in Scotland or Ireland but in any case in Great Britain you can actually go a little more formal if you take quality calfskin and give it a high

shine which we’re told could take up to two to three days of work but gives this the versatility of being able to become a semi-formal shoe so you can wear with the tuxedo for example so I think that would be the epitome of a formal shoe unless you

want to bump it up to the Opera shoe which could be worn for a formal suit opera – which is called a pump we don’t have a pump right now but it’s extremely rare on the market very few people are still wearing these shoes so this is the

Oxford now we move to the next thing so it’s still an Oxford but you see the difference between the two this one has no perforation this one has perforations everywhere okay this is what we call the brogue actually this is what we call in this case a half

bra because it had it have some perforation but not too much perforation in opposition to this which is called a full bra that we can see you have a lot of perforation everywhere what is the story behind this famous broad originally it has been created for a technical

reason as this was worn of course outside and specifically in Great Britain and sorry for my friend from the United Kingdom but United Kingdom is well known for the fact that it’s raining a lot so when you are going outside this small hole had had technical use back

in the years it’s to help the water to get away from the shoe so to drain the water out of the shoe that was the original idea so today this broguing this perforation only have an aesthetic value people love to use this as a decoration on the show

the rule that I would like you to remember the less drugs you have on the shoe the more formal is your shoe the more preparation you put on your shoe the more casual you should become and it’s easy to understand look a shoe without perforation is immediately more

formal the shoe is a little bit of perforation start to be a little bit more casual but these days it’s totally okay to wear this with a business suit but if you go to a much more brogue shoe like this one this one start to be a little

bit more casual than this one so the rule is this one the less perforation the more formal the most perforation the more casual it’s quite easy to remember on these three shoes you have those two shoes who have what we call the cap toe which is the end

of the shoe this one has no perforation this one is perforation and this one is called the wingtip as you can see at the end of the shoe you have this wing we call it a wingtip and that’s a rule also here that I would like to explain

to it if you are a man with very long feet it’s good for you to wear this kind of wingtip where the distance between the wingtip here and this part of the shoe is very short because it has the effect to shorten a little bit the proportions and

to show your feet in a less bigger way but if on the contrary you have a short foot it’s better for you to choose shoes which wingtip will be more to the from of the show that will elongate your foot so this is what we call a wingtip

and really it’s all about proportions right yes so if you’re looking at a man who’s wearing a nice suit and it looks like his feet or helps no skis on the bottom the proportions off right so he can pull that wing up and to the eye and make

it actually shortened to the foot we started with this and I’m gonna I want to come back with this because this is as Sonia explained back in the until the mid 19th century people were wearing boots mostly high boots but also ankle boot I told you at the

beginning of this episode that in this country the United States of America some people have the habit to code on Oxford or Balmoral which is a misuse of the world because Balmoral is describing this feature that is to say this line of perforation that go all the way

from the front to the back of the shoe this is what we call the Balmoral shoe okay so the feature of a Balmoral shoe is this line which is straight from the front to the back of the shoe I show you something which is not a Balmoral you

see this one has a wave it goes down and then it goes up again this is not a Balmoral perforation this is a bummer all perforation now we move with Sonya to one of my favorite subject which is called the specter spectators who is sorry it’s difficult for

me as a French to say a spectator shoe we say spectator in French I remember the first shoe we saw on Parisian gentleman three years ago from Cabo Union was precisely spectatorship so what is a spectator shoe but that’s very simple the explanation is contained inside the name

the spectator shoe is a shoe for spectators which spectators back in the user where the people who were attending cricket games for us French cricket game is a very esoteric game to understand the people who were attending cricket on cricket fields where most of the time wearing spectator

shoes and what is the definition of a spectator shoe a spectator shoe is always by colour he always had two colors it’s a broad because it’s a shoe that you were outside and the reason why the darkest part of the shoe was in the front and the clearest

part of the shoe were more on the body of the shoe was to protect the body so we a spectator shoe he’s made this way the part that are more in contact with the grass and with the field are dark and the the part of the shoe are

not in contact with the field and the grass are clearer in order to protect the aesthetic of the shoe this is a sure also that has seen a revival since a few years it’s also very linked to the jazz industry and to the jazz ambience a lot of

jazz man used to wear this bicolor shoe has kind of a you know jazz back in the years was a kind of a rebellion music visit from music from rebels and wearing bicolor shoes was also a statement for Jasmine you know to to say okay we know the

rules we know the norm but everybody is wearing black shoes we like to wear black and white shoes just as a statement so this is the story of a spectator shoe and cobbler Union is doing as you can see a beautiful one last but not least this is

probably the most simple shoe but the most difficult shoe to to make for shoe makers and you remember I was speaking about this famous shoe called Alessandro and at the Lutie in the 1990s it is what we call the hole cut so as you can see a hole

cut it’s simple it’s a simple shoe which is which is an Oxford but with no capital with no perforation with nothing else then a simple cut in the middle in order to have a perforation for the islands this is the most simple shoe but the most difficult to

produce why because when you have nothing to distract the eye everything is in the last may I remind you for the shoe aficionado of course you know this by heart but the last is the shape of a shoe not to shoes have the same last and you can

see a last of a shoe specifically at the end of the shoe this one is a kind of a classical lass but with a little we call it a chisel okay and Sonia is showing you what is the last so we we start suits with this kind of

thing which is this last is quite chiseled also you can see here what is interesting in the whole cut is that you have nothing to distract your eye so it’s the cut and the last that you see and say most of the time if you want to spot

a good shoemaker look at his hole cut and it will tell you immediately if you are in a good place for shoes or not and this one is absolutely gorgeous what I like about this one specifically is of course it is a ready-to-wear shoe but there’s some nice

features here for example if you flip the shoe over you notice that the waist is is fairly narrow for a ready-to-wear shoe you can see a lot of detail and the way it’s sculpted on the bottom of the shoe and secondly this is a very nice feature that

the the lace closure is quite tight you’re not seeing the open V now depending on how your foot is built you might get some opening right here if your foots wider but it’s a very nice lace closure in this shoe you’ll notice the place to where it’s cut

is in the back when they call it a hole cut and some shoemakers bespoke – makers are actually even able to avoid this cut there’s only one cut here and so it’s gorgeous you you can really see the refinement of the shape because of the lack of cuts

in the shoe this is a statistic statement to have a hole cut shoe I may had on this one this is quite unusual for ready-to-wear this is what we call a bevel waist a violin bevel waist to be more precise here you have what you call the shank

there’s a nice story about the shank the shank is a small piece of plastic or metal or wood or leather depending on the construction of the shoe which is placed here in order to reinforce the shoe when you’re dealing with the hole cut you can really see whether

you have good or poor quality as you know there are natural defects in every piece of leather you’re talking about insect bites even the stress level of the cows can sometimes be seen and the quality of the the leather the quality of the leather and this shoe it

appears quite nicely if you can see there’s little variation in color the shoe looks like it’s been sourced from the from a great leather company and it’s just something to be aware of when you get a hole cut to really take a look at the leather quality and

before you invest in the shoe and for that you have to believe in your eyes but also in your hand so we’ve been covering in this episode the Oxford shoe which is the main category of men’s shoe specifically for business and formal shoe austerity blogs cap-toe blogs wingtip

full brogue Balmoral boots spectator shoe and hole cut I hope I will have the pleasure to see you again in the next episode of soot Oriole talks Cheers [Music]

Are Johnston & Murphy Shoes Any Good?

what’s up guys Brock here from the modest mancom the only style blog dedicated exclusively to short men your first time here be sure to grab your free guide click the link below it’s called how to dress taller 11 crucial style tips for shorter men it’s really good promise

you’ll love it ok today we’re going to talk about a shoe company called Johnson Murphy American shoe company very old established in like the 1850s and you know they’re super popular you’ve probably heard of them maybe you’ve even bought shoes from them before they recently reached out to

me and asked me if I would review some of their shoes and I was like no they’re like what if we send you some free shoes I was like you can’t buy my love of shoes and I sent me some shoes and I was like these are pretty

nice so so I’ll do it but I’m going to be a hundred percent honest and objective alright so there are some great things that I love about this company and there are some things I don’t like about this company and we’re going to talk about all that stuff

so I think to get into it the most important thing is price you know because we’re all on different budgets and price is definitely a limiting factor when it comes to picking out the right shoes for you so you can spend as little or as much as you

like on shoes ok you can go to pay less and get a twenty dollar pair of shoes or you can get a handmade in Italy from you know unicorn leather two thousand dollar pair of shoes alright and everything in between and the thing is with shoes you kind

of do get what you pay for so my advice to you would be if you’re trying to figure out how much you spend on shoes take a look at your budget and get the highest quality shoes that you can afford at the given time so if you can

afford a $300 pair of shoes go ahead and spend that money and get those high quality shoes because they’re going to last a lot longer than the cheap shoes like many years longer okay so it’s going to save you time money in the long run to buy quality

so with that said Johnston Murphy they’re kind of the I would say the upper end of affordable for most guys so they have plenty of shoes that are under $200 they also have a lot of shoes that are between you know 250 and 400 which is an investment

you know for most of us when it comes to one pair of shoes but like I said you really get what you pay for and these are nice shoes these particular ones are the Melton cap toe Oxford and they’re in like a dark burgundy color and the thing

that I noticed right off the bat right out of the box I should say is that these shoes are very comfortable and you know I’ve won a lot of different brands and some brands just aren’t that comfortable or they take a long time to break in and I

have kind of a wider foot like a steeper instep and Johnson Murphy just happens to fit my foot shape very well and so these were comfortable right when I put them on the first time and you know they’re not going to require like a long braking period so

you know just because that’s true for me doesn’t mean it’s going to be true for you but if you’ve had a hard time finding good dress shoes that are comfortable after a long day of wearing them you might want to check out Johnson and Murphy I think it’s

the shape of the shoe I don’t know maybe it has something to do with this optimal comfort system whatever that is I don’t know but they’re comfortable so as far as style goes most of the johnson and murphy shoes kind of have that classic timeless aesthetic like i

said they’re very old company you know they incorporate some trends into what they’re doing but for the most part it’s a you know it’s pretty constant and that that’s a good thing in my opinion I mean I’m going to invest you know $250 $300 into a pair of

shoes I want to know they’re gonna look good five years from now ten years from now I don’t want to buy something that’s going to be outdated next year that said you know if you want a younger hipper sort of more fashion-forward feel this might not be the

best brand for you so we’ve talked about price and style what about size definitely a correlation between you know smaller guys and smaller feet jokes anybody know I wear a size seven in most brands Johnson Murphy makes shoes down to size six which is great because a lot

of brands stop at like size 8 and actually frustrating when you can’t find anything in your size even though you like the style so if you wear anything you know size 6 7 8 this is a good brand for you if you need something smaller than that kind

of out of luck with this brand at least you know bottom line Johnson or Murphy makes good shoes for the price you get a lot of bang for your book if you like the styles and they have shoes in your size definitely check them out thanks as always

for watching and if you enjoy these videos please subscribe and I’ll talk to you next time

The Oxford Dress Shoes – Men’s Wardrobe Essentials – Best Mens Dress Shoes

hi I’m Ashley Weston I’m a celebrity menswear stylist if you don’t know anything about me click right here so this video is part of my men’s wardrobe essentials series I want to talk to you about the oxford dress shoe every man should have some oxford dress shoes in

his closet they are versatile they work in nearly all formal occasions and they are your go-to shoe for suits or if you want to wear a pair of dark wash jeans then you can throw on a sport coat Harrington jacket leather jacket button-down shirt follow shirt a bunch

of different things so they work in so many situations when you imagine a guy in a suit I guarantee you he is wearing a pair of oxford dress shoes they are the quintessential dress shoe I just want to clarify something just because it’s black or brown and leather

does not mean it equals an oxford dress shoe I see so many men out there wearing these great suits I’m looking at the well fitting suits but I look down and they’re wearing these horrible square-toed dress shoe whether it be a slip on lace-up but they’re some kind

of variation of an ugly square toe shoe burn those you should never ever ever wear those instead you want to go with a black and brown lace-up round toed leather dress shoe let’s answer the age-old question of to cap toe or not well I’m really split 50/50 on

this and so are my clients some love a cap toe and some don’t but the beautiful thing is it really doesn’t matter because there is not a single occasion where you would choose a cap toe over a non cap toe whatever you think and is best in whatever

you like more go with that one should you go for quality or value with dress shoes always always always invest in them and go for quality with that being said there is one exception ask yourself the question how often will you be wearing these oxford dress shoes if

you’ll be wearing them more than a handful of times a month then you definitely want to invest in a great quality pair of dress shoes they will last you many years and look great the whole time if you’ll be wearing them sporadically like once a month or even

less then definitely the argument can be me you don’t have to go all out and spend a ton of money on them which colors should you get so every guy should have to Oxford dress shoes one black and one dark brown that will get you through every situation

and every formal semi-formal outfit that you can possibly wear in your closet I have Tommy here to help me demonstrate the best ways to wear your oxford dress shoes thanks so much for being here Tommy so the first outfit that I have him in is in this Fred

Perry Harrington jacket this gray sweater and white button-down shirt by Brooks Brothers I added this black leather dress belt by Allen Edmonds with these Burberry Brit jeans and then we finished it all off with these Allen Edmonds black oxford dress shoes so I put them in this first

outfit let’s go change them for the second outfit I’ll be right back and we’re back so I’ve got Tommy here in this camel coat by Brooks Brothers as well as this navy v-neck sweater and blue oxford button-down dress shirt by both by Brooks Brothers I added this brown

leather dress belt by Allen Edmonds with these grey trousers by Brooks Brothers and we switched his oxford dress shoes for these brown pair by Allen Edmonds that’s some of the different ways you can wear your oxford dress shoes a black and dark brown pair will get you through

every situation and seriously they look good with everything just a quick note though please please please always make sure to match your belt with your dress shoes please just do this for me I promise you it will make everything look so much sharper this video is part of

my men’s wardrobe essential series check out my website for a more in-depth article that includes all of my favorite oxford dress shoes subscribe to this YouTube channel for more videos like this and you know what while you’re at it if you like this video give it a thumbs

up pretty please alright my stud muffins out there thank you so much for watching and I’ll see you in the next one you

Những đôi giày nam màu đỏ đẹp và phong cách nhất

Giày màu đỏ cho nam giới có phong cách trong giày thể thao, giày thông thường, dép và những thứ khác.

Các nhà sản xuất nổi tiếng như Woodland, Lee Cooper, Puma, United Colors of Benetton, Blackberry, Jack & Jones, Adidas, Clarks, Fila, Converse, Nike, Reebok, Mi sneakers, Arrow, Red Tape và Hush Pupgie sản xuất một số loại Giày đỏ thu hút khách hàng hiện đại. Với giày thể thao màu tím là một mặt hàng được ưa thích trong số các khách hàng, hầu hết các cửa hàng điện tử đều nạp thêm nhiều biến thể của giày đỏ cho nam giới.

Do đó, khi bạn duyệt qua lớp giày dép màu đỏ dành cho nam giới tại Mensusa, bạn chắc chắn sẽ tìm ra một điều khiến bạn ấn tượng nhất định. Giày đế bằng màu đỏ dành cho nam bao gồm thiết kế đơn giản, trông vừa phải và đơn giản, trong khi đó, có những bộ sưu tập giày dép kiểu cách khác dành cho nam có kiểu dáng khóa thiết kế làm nổi bật kiểu dáng và dáng vẻ chung của giày dép nam.

Mensusa là nhà bán lẻ trực tuyến đặc biệt cũ hàng thập kỷ, chuyên quảng bá hàng may mặc nam trên mạng. Bạn sẽ tìm thấy hàng hóa chất lượng cao như bộ quần áo, thiết bị và giày dép màu hồng của nam giới với chi phí thấp và chi phí hợp lý trên mạng.

Giày dép nam được chăm chút cẩn thận và được chế tạo cẩn thận của New Balance mang đến sự lựa chọn hiệu suất và các tính năng mà bạn đang tìm kiếm – từ giày thể thao cổ điển đến giày thể thao hiệu suất quá mức và hơn thế nữa – tất cả đều phải hy sinh để biểu diễn hoặc ngược lại. Với rất nhiều sự lựa chọn hợp thời trang và hiểu biết cũng như tuân thủ và thoải mái, loại giày dép của New Balance chứng minh rằng về mặt giày dép, không có nghĩa là sự hy sinh. Tìm kiếm một cái gì đó cổ điển và không chính thức phù hợp cho thoải mái, trên cơ sở thường xuyên và hoạt động thể thao một thời trang hiện đại, đúng xu hướng? Bạn đang tìm kiếm giảm và giá trị tốt nhất khi mua giày thể thao màu hồng cổ điển và thông thường của nam giới?

Nếu bạn là một fan hâm mộ của giày da, chúng tôi chỉ cung cấp cho bạn giày da màu tím nguyên chất. Nếu bạn là người thích biến tấu khi nói đến kiểu dáng và thiết kế, chúng ta có những đôi giày lười bằng chất liệu da lộn cổ điển với màu tím thu hút nhiều ánh nhìn trong đám đông.

Những đôi giày thoải mái này là đôi giày thể thao nam màu đỏ phù hợp cho loại đường phố hiện đại. Hãy nhớ rằng, có một lý do khiến những đôi giày cơ bản màu tím này tồn tại trong khi rất nhiều người khác đã tăng và giảm. Nếu bạn cần phải xỏ chân vào nhưng luôn nổi bật, đừng tìm đâu xa ngoài đôi giày thể thao nam màu tím cổ điển này. Và nếu bạn thích giày sneaker nam màu hồng và có sở trường về kinh điển, bạn chắc chắn sẽ tìm kiếm Giày đỏ cổ điển cho bạn.

Sau khi tất cả mọi người không thể mang giày màu đỏ táo bạo với đủ tự tin. Trong khi một số nam giới có thể chọn giày thể thao màu tím hoàn toàn, những người khác thích giày dép có một gợi ý hoặc màu đỏ ngay tại đây và ở đó. Giày đỏ có xu hướng được tìm thấy được liệt kê dưới đây phân loại giày không chính thức, giày chạy, dép, phao và giày thể thao. Đây thường là kết quả của màu đỏ rực rỡ không thể áp dụng để mặc như đồ bảo hộ lao động.

Bạn sẽ khám phá những màu sắc như màu tím sẫm giống với màu hạt dẻ và màu hồng nhạt nhất xuất hiện như màu cam trong phạm vi rộng của đôi giày nam màu đỏ. Bạn có thể đi một đôi giày trang phục có hoa văn màu đỏ hoặc một đôi giày oxford màu tím cơ bản dễ dàng. Các chi phí của giày thể thao màu đỏ cổ điển của những người đàn ông này có thể được tìm thấy với ưu đãi giảm giá lớn trên chúng.

Khám phá những đôi giày cơ bản màu đỏ dành cho nam giới, bao gồm những món đồ kinh điển giống như Club C và Classic Leather. Giày thể thao retro của chúng tôi đã quay đầu và làm nên quá khứ trong nhiều thập kỷ.

Lướt qua lớp học này để tìm đôi giày dạ hội màu đỏ sáng bóng tuyệt vời với hoa văn hai tông màu trong đó. Bạn sẽ khám phá màu đỏ với màu trắng, hồng với màu đen và nhiều hỗn hợp khác nhau trong đôi giày thể thao màu đỏ truyền thống ton sur ton cho nam.

Giày đỏ phổ biến hơn trong tất cả các phân loại khác nhau, ngoại trừ giày thể thao chính thức. Giày thể thao chính thức thường được yêu thích nhất với các màu đen, nâu và nâu và được sản xuất từ ​​chất liệu da tốt.

Bây giờ bạn có thể lưu trữ cho giày thể thao màu hồng truyền thống của nam giới trong tất cả các màu tím tại cửa hàng trực tuyến của chúng tôi. Giày đỏ và đen đặc trưng cho sự hiện diện trẻ trung, với thiết kế họa tiết hoàn hảo cho đường và xa hơn. Mua chúng trực tuyến ngay bây giờ bằng cách đăng nhập vào Bạn sẽ tìm thấy giày thể thao nam màu hồng sáng bóng cho nam với chi phí ít hơn $ 50. Chọn bất kỳ thời trang, thiết kế và sắc thái của giày thể thao nam màu tím trực tuyến cho nam giới và mua chúng với chi phí thấp trên mạng. Đôi giày nam đẹp màu đỏ có thể được tìm thấy trong nhiều sắc thái của phong cách thời trang so với màu tím như giày cơ bản màu hồng đậm, bộ sưu tập màu tím nhạt của giày nam màu tím, vv.

Ghép nối một đôi giày thể thao màu hồng đậm với quần áo đẹp nhất không phải là một hoạt động đơn giản. Mặc một cái gì đó quá to có thể ghi đè lên toàn bộ trang phục, trong khi một điều quá nhạt nhẽo sẽ khiến chiếc giày đỏ xuất hiện không đúng chỗ.

Xem thêm các sản phẩm thời trang khác cho nam: ví da nam đẹp, túi xách nam cao cấp, thắt lưng nam hàng hiệu

Men’s Dress Shoes: Buying Tips, Oxfords vs Derby, Italian Made vs China Made!

so what’s up guys um been trying to do this video for a while with the men’s shoe discussion these are there’s going to be formal business shoes or dress shoes or like if you’re going for whatever some time if you’re looking at shoes I’m going to just discuss that two key things in this video is well before I mean again one of these shoes only one shoe of this lot of five are made in Italy the rest are made in China maybe one is in India but I’m just going to say Chinese or Asian made shoes a lot of these are the same styling they’re all oxford shoes for one derby shoe I’m going to play nine a minute – and that end there so is Italian made shoes worth it so one of these shoes cost four hundred and fifty dollars the rest are store brand store retail normal ninety two hundred and fifty dollar shoes now I never pay full retail for anything you know so I do not pay for and fifty offer the Italian shoes nor did I pay 150 off any other these shoes on here probably combined all these shoes I paid four dollars for so let’s get right into it the next thing I’m going to talk about well the first I’m going to talk about which is the second point in this video is men’s shoe size and it gets overlooked every time I hear people talk about shoe size in what size you are even at high-end department stores like Barneys New York they don’t really discuss that the people selling shoes the people buying shoes it’s sort of a big confusion but if you go to like Europe you go to the cheapest store in England in London they’ll know how to discuss shoe size and the most important thing next to your social security number your date of birth is your shoe size and a lot of men just use the u.

s.

nine ten ten and a half eleven eight seven that doesn’t cut it because I’m looking at all these shoes where four of them are all by Gordon rush with the one exception of one being Gordon rush Italian made shoes and top one they are Ashton green these are all forty four sides and forty four is the EU or European size – I believe that’s where EU stands for and that’s the number you want to keep which you write it down put in your pocket that’s the number that’s gonna follow you around unless your feet swell or grow or shrink or whatever or get chopped off because that number never changes you’re 44 at 30 years old you’re gonna be 44 at 35 44 at 40 years old now the shoe size the US and UK and so forth different countries where he goes I think it’s a Brazilian shoe size as well and sizes in Asia that’s going to change where you go but the eug that’s of actual foot measurement size I believe is also centimeter management science that that may be more specific and more reliable but the 44 is where I go on in the US and the in Europe I don’t really go to other parts of the world to worry about different types but UK US size is what I’m worried about now the first pair shoes are 10 slides US 10 the second pair are size US 11 these pair of size us ten and a half size u.

s.

10 for the Derby at the end and size 10 and a half u.

s.

now all these shoes are the same exact size my feet of 44 and these are all 44 so the second thing on the tag you see says 10 and a half 44 1044 so it’s just weird how the shoes are sized differently and I believe Gordon Rush makes shoes with different markets so some of the issues might have been initially made for a certain market that’s why the discrepancy in sizes Ashton gray I don’t know much about this brand I know it’s a DSW store brand and their sizes are pretty much I have a couple of their shoes and I’m using a ten and a half and that measures 44 so within Ashton gray that brand which is a US market brand and specifically a ten and a half and once I know that 44 I’m a 10 and a half in that shoe so keep that in mind that’s very important guys get your feet measured and get that number written down and wherever you go around the world that’s going to be very reliable and getting your shoe size even if you order online you’re not sure about what your shoe sizes for men’s dress shoes not really sneakers or or other type of shoes but for men’s dress shoes that size is going to be really helpful in terms of finding a good fit for your side now what does this do quick difference between derby and oxford shoes because that’s another thing that kind of it kind of bothers me that people confuse it now everyone people selling shoes shoe sellers tend to call every pair of shoe that looks like this oxford shoes because they’re dressy they usually call them Oxford’s they’re not this is a Derby shoe and a dirty shoe this is the lacing is an open structure Mason so the tongue usually floats and the gusset in over here is sort of open so you can stick your finger right in there now offers use by contrast there’s nothing floating there it’s just rigid it’s a closed tongue system so the tongue isn’t really floating it’s just it’s very taut between the arm folds of the leather I believe it’s called a vamp and a shoe so that the tongue of the shoe is it’s much more stiffer and it’s anchored right through the shoe itself whereas issue it’s just one construction up and a tongue float now Oxford’s dirty shoes are little less formal in my eyes compared to an Oxford shoe where you have the nice structure of the tongue and everything looks meet and folded there where this is just kind of a little bit more sloppier now I’ll choose a graceful like if you go on a wedding in the summertime and you want to look dressy but remain comfortable now seeing with Oxford derby shoes I’m sorry is Derby shoes the thing with Derby shoes they’re much more breathable because that open tongue system there you get more breathability as well as you have wider feet member wide seat might want to look for Derby shoes because it’s a little bit more comfortable on wide feet because that get that flexibility right there as well as that fold there it’s going to be less painful on the area behind your toe area so that’s fold in a Derby shoes gonna be much more comfortable whereas an Oxford I’m sorry guys my shoes over these shoes are very worn an oxford shoes going to be much more rigid and it’s much more better if you have a narrow feet in terms of fit and comfort comes of styles you could go anywhere you want with if you have wide feet narrow feet whatever so there you go that’s an Oxford kind of Oxford shoe so if someone says Oxford shoe it has to have a close correlation Derby shoes are little I think in my eyes a little less formal I have men people I work with they all only wear Derby shoes and then you have the loafers shoes which is I think much less formal but these are still formal but in my eye in the eyes of many people um Derby shoes aren’t as formal as on Oxford shoes now if you haven’t guessed already these are the ones that are made in Italy and we’ll just go into quick differences between using these shoes because these shoes are almost identical even a logo in there look at that Ashford Ashton great collection and Gordon rush made in Italy see see right there it says made in Italy in the store and these shoes actually came in that Gordon rush box and I was amazed to find these I don’t think I’ve ever owned an Italian made Oxford business shoe in my life I’ve owned prada shoes that were made in italy and jiangshi was made in italy those are kind of my casual sneaker shoes now these shoes are right on the box Ivy likes a really great quality you have that leather sole there leather sole and a wood heel and everything on an Italian makes you it’s sort of handmade and everything is replaceable at your local cobbler or shoe repair shop even the leather uppers could be replaced and the shoe could be sort of I think the term is real a stood where it’s sort of reconstructed from just like simple parts of the shoe and everything else is new so Italia may choose a highly serviceable little bit more expensive I mean these shoes retail $450 I found these in Amazon for 50 offers funny enough and I got the first pair in and I was like this is a really good deal so I went back and bought two more boxes of the Gordon rush in this size for myself and also also always wanted Bryan dark-brown chocolate brown business shoes have been it’s been really hard to find shoes this color in this style usually get the the summer colors like this the light tan or you get like a lighter brown but to get the dark brown looks really hard to find this color so I bought as many as I could from the seller now just go to the to the quality of the stitching and stuff like that you can see there are the Italian shoes are much much better quality than the Chinese made shoes there these are made in China you got a broken design you can see the Italian is much more much more smoother there because he like not as smooth as the Italian made shoes and the leather creases a little bit more I don’t know undistinguished and the Italian crease there and these are new shoes I’m going to give these maybe a couple of months before I come back and maybe do another compare video but the Italian made shoes definitely worth it um I don’t think that’s not real leather so and I don’t know if that’s a wood or a quark stool but it’s not real and it’s not nailed in but definitely get the Italian guys and yeah really like Nikes Italian made shoes the latians are also very well done there I really like the lacing on that shoe and as a bit of the stitching now what Ashton gray has done with this arm these are called a Kobe shoes um I like the wood detailing on the side you don’t really get that with the quarter rush shoes here but you you know you could see there and compare but I really like the detailing on the Italian made shoes even the little things there as well as the transition of the on their side you don’t get that hair at all and then compare these two I have two pairs these also the new garden rush shoes these are made in China and get the all rubber sole with a fake stitch in there it’s just a stitch in design and you get the fake nail design there compared to the real nail and it’s not even perfect because it’s handmade so it’s slow imperfection there so and look at the broken again broken is much better done there than it is in a Chinese made shoes see that detail is much better even the stitching quality is better than any time I made shoes and um it’s not surprising that the Italian made shoes are wins out in terms of the quality of these shoes and the most similar to these were these and I’ve worn these for a couple of years now and my flaw with the Gordon runs brand is the heel box wears out really quickly in my shoes because I Drive I think the way I Drive my car really hard and I Drive in the mornings a lot dropping my daughter to school so that’s from driving you know every day yeah every time I wear these shoes again in the car that heel wears out from you know speeding and braking speeding victim so that’s it guys each other made shoes definitely worth it you can if the shoe wear out you can replace many parts in this shoe someone’s like an old car and restore it as many times you can and these are comparable to Allen Edmonds shoes and I think the shoe is called a Park Avenue as well as Johnson’s Murphy makes you similar to be business shoes that you can take back to the store and they’ll repair it replace parts on the shoes for you for you so definitely Italian made shoes are definitely worth it guys I paid $50 for those on Amazon they’re four hundred and fifty dollars for maybe for the 95 retail I believe is what they said these are the shoes I bought these for like $40 at a store in New York those are like maybe $60 and the other shoes are maybe $100 retail but I paid less for them these Kobe’s I bought from DSW a coupon okay 55 for them so there’s no guys you don’t have to saw a lot of money to get Italian made shoes just do a little bit of research online searching around Amazon eBay you can find new stuff and they I know eBay is sort of like a hero miss and what you buy there but that’s we check those websites out do a lot of searching around and you find deals and stuff like that alright guys I’ll see you guys in the next one bye.

$500 Shoes vs $5000 Shoes 😱 | Brown Semi-Brogue Oxford Comparison | Kirby Allison

what’s the difference between a $500 pair of semi brogues and a $5, 000 pair of semi brogues in this video I’m gonna tell you I’m Kirby Allison and I love helping the well-dressed acquire and care for their wardrobes join me as we explore the world of quality craftsmanship and tradition [Music] so you may be asking what is the difference between a 500 dollar pair of Carmina semi brogues and this five thousand dollar pair a bespoke foster and son semi brogues in this video I’m gonna introduce you to some of the differences on more casual shoes these with Brogan’s the more broguing that you put on a pair of shoe the more casual it becomes all the way from a semi brogue going up to a full brogue or a wingtip these four shoes I have here today are all semi brogues technically a shoe isn’t called a full brogue unless it has a wingtip and none of these for shoes I have here today have wingtips they’re all cap toes with broguing detail that makes them a more casual shoe the moment that you put any type of peripherals on to the shoe or broguing as its called it creates a more casual shoe or what would traditionally be a weekend or country shoe now in this day and age the line there between you know city shoes for the weekday and country shoes for the weekend of course is blurred but the point is still there that the more Brogan that you put on a shoe the more casual it becomes it’s not that you can’t wear a black semi brogue or a dark brown semi brogue with a business suit it’s just that that same business suit with the black cap toe Oxford with no broguing would be a slightly more formal look we have four shoes here today that really represent the spectrum that you can have on a pair of shoes we have a five hundred fifteen dollar pair of a semi Brooks from Carmina this is on their inca last we have a six hundred ninety five dollar pair of cordovan strands from allen edmonds we have a twelve hundred dollar pair of st.

james’s – from got siano and Gerling and finally far out here in left field we have a bespoke pair of foster and son shoes that run five thousand pounds or exported to the US market about five thousand three hundred dollars this is a huge range and in this video I want to go through some of the differences stylistically between these shoes starting first with this pair of shoes from Carmina now Carmina is a small shoemaker from the Spanish island of Majorca and they are well known amongst shoot enthusiasts as really making an incredible shoe for the bunny at 515 dollars this is an absolutely exceptional shoe an incredible value because it is starting to show some of the more nuanced elements of high-end shoe making that one would expect from an expensive shoe now we pointed these out in more detail in our black cap toe Oxford video but you can still see those elements here with these carmina’s and that is the higher stitch density to the outsole the fudging which is the small indentations on top of the outsole to give additional visual detail of course it is a fully Goodyear welted shoe on the bottom you can see that the outsole is finished but it also has an invisible channel stitching and a little bit of advanced nailing detail on here it is a beautifully finished outsole and then the pattern and last design all showed the type of finesse and balance that one would expect from Carmina it’s a beautifully elegant shoe with the high stitch density to the uppers it has a punch to medallion and then all of these same elements are broked creating an exceptional amount of visual detail on this shoe going back to the the rear of the shoe we see a nice clean tight heel the heel base sits flush underneath the back of the shoe and the shoes have a nice dark brown or medium brown finish that allows you to see some of the nuance of the natural leather here the uppers are made from a high-quality open pore full grain leather which means that this hasn’t been corrected and you can actually see the pores of the leather there which is really important because an open grain leather ensures that the leather hasn’t been sealed and that the leather is going to be able to be fed by polish and an open pore full grain leather really ages and looks better with time so the more you polish this shoe and the more you wear it the more richness and depth you’re gonna see with this leather now one of the things I like about this lighter brown color is it really takes polish so well so you can play around with different colors to create some antiquing and some burnishing and after you polish the shoes you know a few times or the more you wear them over the course of a few years you’ll really begin to see the patina of a really high quality leather begin to show this is a great shoe and at five hundred and fifteen dollars this is actually in except no value so our next pair of shoes is a quarter band pair of strands from Allen Edmonds now that’s the reason that this is a $695 shoe and not a $395 shoe now the reason is because cordovan is a premium leather this is a genuine Horine leather which is manufactured in Chicago by the whore ween leather company and cordovan actually doesn’t come from cow it comes from horse and that’s technically not even a leather it’s a membrane it comes from the rear quarters of a horse and one of the features of cordovan is that it has no pore structure because again it’s not a skin now cordovan has a cult following and it’s really famous for being bulletproof I mean it is a road warrior of a shoe it has a natural luster that buffs and polishes really easily but it’s kind of a nuanced look and you have to really like the look of cordovan to really be into it now this shoe of course at $695 is really more about the material than the make whenever it comes to allen edmonds when comparing this to the carmina’s the make of this shoe is actually below the carmina but it’s more expensive because of the material that’s being used and you can really see that in a few details that I’m going to point out first and foremost is the stitch density of the outsole you can see right here that you’ve got these large kind of heavy stitches that’s used to attach the outsole to the welt now this is a Goodyear welted shoe just like all of the shoes here but there is a big difference in the stitch density here now at the end of the day there’s no pragmatic or practical difference here your soul is not gonna fall off this pair of allen edmonds but if you’re someone that is into the more nuance differences of shoe making and you’re really into shoes it’s these details that really do make a difference at the end of the day and the higher stitch density is just also more aesthetically pleasing we don’t see any fudging here and if we look on the bottom of the shoe although there is more finishing to the outsole than what you get on a standard pair of allen edmonds and also they’re using gr windham bak oak bark tanned leather outsoles which is the highest quality leather outsole that you can really put on a factory-made shoe you see an open channel stitching right so this is the stitching that is used to go through the outsole and attach it to that welt but it’s totally visible it’s not an invisible channel stitching like what you see here with the carmina’s now again most people are never gonna see the bottoms of your shoe but if you’re one of those people like I am that really loves shoes and really enjoys those more nuanced aspects of shoe making this in fact can be a big deal but what I love about the quarterman shoes from Allen Edmonds is that all of the materials that they use to make this shoe are of the highest quality between the genuine whore lean a cordovan leather and the grr in the bak oak bark tanned leather outsoles as far as the materials are concerned on this shoe it’s as good as it gets one other difference with Allen Edmonds that’s unique to all of their leather dress shoes is the six eyelets carmina the got siano underlings and these foster and sons all have five eyelets which is a more traditional kind of English aesthetic but Allen Edmonds uses six eyelids which is more of an American style another aspect of Allen Edmonds is they have something called the 360 degree goodyear welt right so all of these shoes with the exception of the hand welded bespoke ones are Goodyear welted now the reason that that is important and the reason you really want to have a Goodyear welted leather dress you is that any high-quality pair of shoes the upper will outlast this outsoles by several several factors right so a really high quality pair of leather dress shoes like these quarterman ones or any of the ones we have here should easily last twenty years and you’ll go through several out soles and so you need to be able to resell the shoes without disturbing the upper and that’s what Goodyear welting allows now with the 360 degree welding you see the welting doesn’t stop right here at the arch it continues all the way around the back of the heel and again this is just another element of the Allen Edmonds that you either love it or you hate it but I think creates a slightly less finished look whenever it comes to the heel you can see with the carmina’s and as you’ll see with the GAT see on underlings in these bespoke foster and son shoes is that the welting stops right here at the base of the heel and doesn’t continue all the way around and what that allows us for the heel base to sit and more cleanly underneath the base of the heel for someone that is looking to acquire a quarter of an pair of shoes 695 is actually a pretty good value it’s hard pressed to find cordovan for any less than this pair of allen edmonds now next we’re moving on to an English shoemaker this is Gaziano and Girling really well known for their updated english aesthetic now once you move to the ghats jános you get a slightly more fashion-forward shoe than what you have here with these carmina’s or the allen edmonds you have their updated kind of English aesthetic with their square toe it’s slightly more narrow it’s not as round as any of these and you can see that got see a nose and grillings craftsmanship really puts together a shoe that is beautiful the balance and the aesthetic is really as good as it gets now this is an Oxford just like all of these shoes here but it’s also an Adelaide which refers to kind of the separate pattern piece of the facings of laces so this is set underneath the quarters right here so this is a cap toe Adelaide City brogue and you can see it’s got beautiful details here of course it is a Goodyear welted shoe but just like those carmina’s it has a higher stitch density that goes all the way around there fudging the welt it stops right here at the base of the heel you can see with these $1200 Gaziano is they really take everything to the next level so not only is the heel beautifully shaped but the heel base sits perfectly underneath the shoe it’s tight it’s finished it’s dyed and polished and then the bottom of the shoe is beautifully finished they’re using an oak bark tanned leather outsole and heels also just like these quarterman shoes from allen edmonds this comes from a tannery based in the United Kingdom versus one based in Germany but beautiful finishing and then also got siano Gerling signature little back waist now what that means is that with the pair of Gaziano is not only do you have a tight narrow waist right here it’s shaped even more to have a slight fiddleback that goes right here most people will never see the bottom of your shoe but if you’re someone that’s into shoes and that really loves shoes it’s this type of more nuanced finishing that really just provokes emotion and makes people go crazy it’s why I love a gauzy on girl the last has incredible definition and you can see that there’s a high stitch density to the uppers of course they’re using only the highest quality leather for the uppers all of their shoes are Hannah clicked which means that the leather pattern pieces are cut out by hand which allows the person doing the cutting to position them around any blemishes on the raw leather and then everything about the way that the the punching is done and the making is done is absolutely perfect so the got siano underlings for 155 pounds you can purchase a pair of they’re fully lasted shoe trees which if you’re investing in a shoe like this you absolutely would want to do because the fit of this shoe tree is going to perfectly match the last the shoe was built around and what that does is it just helps prevent any type of creasing that may occur as you wear these shoes with this pair of Galliano’s if you compare it to this $500 pair of carmina’s you can really see again that level of finishing not only do you have the invisible channel stitching like what you have with the carmina but you just see a degree of bottom finishing that you don’t get with these carmina’s everything about it is tighter it has a narrower waist you have the fiddleback the heel is smaller and sits tighter underneath the shoe and it’s just beautifully done $1200 without question is a lot of money making this pair of Gaziano and girl inks an investment piece next we have my newest pair of bespoke shoes from Foster & Sons at 5000 British pounds these are exceptionally expensive you back out the v80 tax which is 20% it’s 4000 pounds and US dollars that’s about 5, 300 dollars and this is without question an investment piece for someone that is into shoes what you get with the $5, 000 pair of bespoke shoes is really that the spoke fit with these three pair of ready-to-wear shoes what you get is a factory-made shoe that is made exceptionally well but on a stock last with these bespoke shoes you get a handmade pair of shoes that are made on a completely individualized custom lasts that has carved around my foot now the last is the block of wood or in some cases the block of plastic that is used to build and shape shoo so all of the shape here in the fit is a function of how that last is designed now here these were made by John Spencer which is a last maker for foster and sons who measured my feet took all my measurements and then carved a block of wood that was meant to approximate my foot and turn it into a three-dimensional shape that they then built the shoe around now the difference is that this shoe fits perfectly there’s no extra room there’s no pressure points it supports me under the arch it doesn’t bother you know my cuneiform bone here at the top and it just fits perfectly there’s no excess wrinkling and it’s just an absolutely perfectly fitting shoe now in order to get that fit you’re gonna pay more and it’s gonna take more time but if you’re someone that really spends a lot of time on their feet or just loves shoes bespoke without question is the zenith of Footwear now in addition to the fit one of the other things you get with the bespoke pair of shoes of course is the handmade craftsmanship so the upper is still being stitched together the machine just like these shoes but someone is cutting and designing that pattern just for your last you can customize or change anything about this shoe because it’s being made just for you the second thing is that instead of a goodyear welt what it has is something called a hand welt with the hand welted pair of shoes what they’re doing is the shoe maker is going to carve a channel out of the insole and then through that channel they’re gonna sew the welt which is that leather strip that goes all the way around that is done completely by hand using locking stitches and so what it allows is a shoe that sits closer to the ground is more durable more flexible and is going to last longer than what you would get with a Goodyear welted leather dress shoe in addition to the welt being done by hand at the outsole is stitched to the welt by hand also and on this particular shoe it was done to 16 stitches per inch so these allen edmonds might be eight that carmina’s are probably ten to twelve the Gaziano is twelve but this was done at 16 stitches per inch giving absolutely incredible finesse and finish to the shoe you see that it comes straight from the shoemaker with more finishing the heel you can see sits perfectly and incredibly tightly underneath the shoe beautifully done the heel block is made by hand so each layer is built up it’s not a factory made block and then just the level of finishing again is taking it to the next level now one other thing that you get with a bespoke pair of shoes especially at this level is something that’s called a fully lasted shoe tree where basically the last of the shoe is sent to a company and that copies it and builds the shoe tree to perfectly fit the shoe exactly using the same dimensions as the last the shoe was built around what this allows for is just a greater level of fit so that the shoe tree does an even better job protecting the integrity of the shoe and preventing any types of wrinkles one of the things you get with a bespoke pair of shoes is also an experience any of these ready-to-wear shoes you’re gonna walk into a store try a few pairs on and leave but buying or commissioning a pair of bespoke shoes is really committing yourself to a journey and an experience you’re gonna have your feet measured you’re gonna go back for fittings and then you know that someone made these shoes just for you so there really is just something special about owning a bespoke pair of shoes that just separates this shoe from any of these ready-to-wear shoes whenever I wear these foster and sons I’m gonna think about the time I had my feet measured I’m gonna think about all the time I went to go visit the foster and Sun shop on German Street and I’m gonna think about the craftsman that I know made these shoes to the absolute highest standards and that just is special for me when shopping for a pair of casual shoes a cap toe Oxford semi brogue is a great option to have in any wardrobe it’s gonna add a little bit versatility in terms of being able to wear during the week perhaps with business or on the weekend now the colour of leather or material that you have that shoe made out of of course is going to have a dramatic impact on how its worn being formal or casual so whenever you’re looking at a black cap to Oxford it’s easy to compare apples to apples but the moment that we go from a black cap toe Oxford to brown semi brogues we begin to see the huge variety of shoes out there I mean just within these four shoes no two are the same and they’re totally different yet still all being semi brogues with relatively the same patterns this isn’t even taking into account the different materials that all these shoes are made in I know that Carmina and Gaziano and Girling and of course with the bespoke pair of shoes all of these shoes can be ordered through a made-to-order program where you can have them made out of almost any material so this same shoe you may have in this beautiful chestnut calf skin but you might also have it made in a nice dark brown suede so any of these shoes here could be made in almost an infinite number of ways when you’re looking at the for shoes on this table and trying to figure out which pair of shoes is right for you you really have to start with price point because let’s be honest that’s where we all begin and so here for five hundred fifteen dollars with Carmina you get an absolutely exceptional made pair of shoes that begins to show some of the more nuanced elements of shoe making that any shoe aficionado is really going to enjoy now if you’re someone that enjoys cordovan or really wants a low-maintenance shoe then for 695 dollars you can get this pair of shoes from Allen Edmonds now you’re not going to get any of the more nuanced kind of finesse that you get with the carmina’s or with these gassy own underlings but you do get kind of a cult favorite material cordovan for 695 dollars which is an exceptional deal and it’s still made with GRN debauch oak bark tanned leather out soles this is a great shoe that will last a lifetime now if you’re someone that enjoys a slightly more fashion-forward aesthetic or if you want those more nuanced elements of craftsmanship then this $1, 200 pair of Gotti underlings is really an exceptional deal they’re made of the highest quality materials using the best craftsmanship there’s still a high degree of hand finishing involved in the shoe and it just creates a pair of shoes that’s striking from a distance and people immediately know that you’re wearing a high quality pair of leather dress shoes now if you’re someone that loves a handmade craftsmanship once the best or has a difficult to fit foot you can’t go wrong with bespoke there’s no question that it’s incredibly expensive prohibitively expensive but investing in a pair of bespoke shoes you’re buying a pair that’ll really last you the rest of your life time with bespoke shoes you get that Custom Fit and you get that handmade craftsmanship and the level of finishing that you can only find in a bespoke pair of shoes however if you’re looking for a pair of shoes to arrive tomorrow bespoke isn’t the pair of shoes to go for because these took two years to make now I hope you enjoyed this review of these four different and cap toe Oxford semi brogues if you have any questions or any thoughts about these shoes or want to share with us your favorite pair of semi brogues by all means please let us know in the comment section below also let us know which shoes you’d like to see us compare in our next video I’m curvy Allison and I love to help the well-dressed acquire and care for their wardrobes while exploring the world of quality craftsmanship and tradition thanks for joining me [Music].

Cedar Shoe Trees, How To Avoid Creasing In Dress Shoes, And More – Q&A 14 | Kirby Allison

Hi, I’m Kirby Allison and we love helpingthe well-dressed take care of their wardrobes.

Thanks forall your comments and questions that you guys have posted on our YouTube channel.

After reading them all and answering as many as possible, I’ve selected five thatwe’re going to feature in today’s Q&A video.

Each of these individuals willreceive a complimentary pair of our sovereign grade shoelaces as a token ofour appreciation for their participation in our channel.

The topic of today’s Q&Avideo is going to be about a truly essential component of shoe care–shoetrees.

Remember if you have any questions or comments while you’re watching one ofour videos, please ask them in the comment section.

I try to get back to asmany of these questions as possible.

And of course if you have any questionsabout shoe trees, this is the video to ask them in.

The first question intoday’s Q&A video is from Tommy Tuber1.

Thanks Tommy for your question.

It reads, “As a college student, I’ve gotten by with plastic shoe trees or stuffing newspaper.

Maybe it’s time to get a cedarwood shoe tree.

Are there many benefits?” A greatquestion Tommy.

I feel that shoe trees are one of the most essential thingsthat you can invest on to really take care of a pair of shoes.

And thebeautiful thing about a pair of shoe trees is once you buy a pair itreally will last forever.

I mean there’s very little that can go wrong or wearout on a shoe tree, so I highly recommend investing a few extra dollars to investin a really high-quality wooden shoe tree that you know that you’ll be happywith for years if not decades.

So Tommy I really applaud your resourcefulness andyou know using a plastic shoe tree or newspaper is absolutely the right thingto do if you don’t have a proper pair of cedar shoe trees because it’s better todo something than nothing at all.

Now the primary reason to use a wooden or acedar shoe tree is that of course the wood is much more rigid than plastic ornewspaper and it’s going to do a better job really maintaining the shape of theshoe.

The second benefit of the cedar shoe tree is its moisture wickingcapabilities, right.

So cedar is a very absorbentwood and so after you take off a pair of shoes its absorbed quite a bit ofmoisture throughout the day as you perspire while you’re wearing your shoes.

So it’s important that you allow that moisture to escape the shoe and don’ttrap it in there.

Now the cedar shoe trees that we sell here at The HangerProject are the ultra model from Woodlore.

It’s a $34 95 cent shoe tree whichis actually an incredibly good price for a shoe tree of this quality.

This sameshoe tree in Europe would be at least twice as expensive and what I love aboutthe ultra is it’s a traditional split toe shoe, right, so it’s going to fit awide variety of different widths.

It has a very high vamp which is going tosupport the forward part of the shoe.

It’s got a very nice kind of deep springto the barrel so it’s gonna again provide that tension.

And the mostimportant feature of the ultra shoe tree is it has a very generous and round heel, right, that’s going to distribute the pressure evenly over the heel of theshoe which will help maintain that shape.

What I don’t like are the cedar shoetrees that are very narrow in the back because inevitably what you have is allthat pressure pushing on a very narrow part of the back heel which can deformor distort the shape of the back of the shoe.

Tommy, great question and I totallysupport investing in a few pair of high quality cedar shoe trees.

You know ifyou’ve just graduated college you don’t have money to purchase them for all yourshoes at once, you know it’s something that you can easily do over the courseof several months.

So Tommy, great question and I look forward to sendingyou a pair of our sovereign grade shoelaces.

Our second question today isfrom Jeremy Emilio and it reads, “How tight should shoe trees be?” So Jeremy, great question.

It’s a question that we’ve received often here at The HangerProject and the answer is is that you want your shoe trees to really be astight as possible without being so tight that you really have to force the shoetree with a lot of effort into the shoe.

Now the reason you want your shoe treesto be tight is again you want that tension in the spring of the barrel toreally pull that shoe tree flat to straighten all the wrinkles and creasingout of the vamp.

And so I’ll show you here I’ve gotactually three different sizes of our cedar shoe trees.

I’ve got our smallwhich would be recommended for something smaller than a nine or a nine and a half.

I have our medium which is recommended for about a nine and a half to abouteleven.

And then I have our large which is recommended for ten and half elevenor larger.

Now I wear a U.

S.

nine and a half shoe and so this is a pair of myGaziano Girling shoes and you can see there’s very little creasing across thevamp here and the reason is because I use shoe trees.

Now the purpose of theshoe tree is after you wear a shoe all day you’re gonna take it off and it’sgonna naturally kind of bow upwards right because you’ve been flexing theshoe.

And so the purpose of the shoe tree is to straighten that shoe flat to pullthe creasing out of the leather so that as that leather dries after you’ve wornit, remember it’s been absorbing the perspiration of your foot throughout theday, that those creases don’t get memorized into the leather.

So it’simportant that your shoe tree exerts enough tension to straighten the shoe.

Solet’s say okay so you’ve worn the shoe all day.

This is the small which ishonestly too small for this shoe.

So I’m putting it in here and you can see itreally just drops right into the shoe.

There’s not much tension.

There’s notmuch compression.

I can still crease the shoe right, so it’s not holding muchtension on that shoe.

That shoe tree is too small, right.

Now if I take the largewhich is too large.

For one you can see that the front forward part of the shoetree is too wide for the particular shoe.

That’s going to be the first problem soit’s not going to insert itself all the way in.

And then second I’m having toreally compress the barrel almost a hundred percent, right.

So I’ve got if yousee this fully compressed literally less than one centimeter probably half of acentimeter of room and I really have to work hard to get that in there.

Now thatshoe tree is too large.

You look at a medium which is just theright size.

I like to push that shoe tree in and then I’m going to extend thatbarrel and as you can see it still flexes a little bit but not much right and so this shoe tree is the perfect size.

So a little trick after you insertyour shoe trees is that I always take my shoe and just flex it flat so againthat’s just helping to provide a little bit more tension to straighten that shoeand allow that shoe tree to fully expand inside to ensure that it’s properlyseated into the shoe.

Now Jeremy if you have any questions about the proper sizetake a look at our sizing guide that we have on all of our shoe trees or feelfree to call customer service or send us an email.

We’re more than happy to walkyou through the sizing process and as with all of our products here at TheHanger Project if you order a pair of shoe trees from us just like withhangers and it doesn’t fit perfectly we’re happy to exchange that totallyfree of charge.

Jeremy, great question and I look forward to sending you a pair ofour sovereign grade shoelaces.

Our third question today is from Compnor-97 andhis question reads, “Does it matter if the shoe tree is the last of the shoe orwould a generic for the lack of a better term be okay? I’m guessing yes, but thenwhat exactly is the difference? Thanks.

” So this is an excellent question.

So there’sseveral different styles of shoe trees.

You know the the highest end shoe trees, you know the highest quality that you can get is a bespoke fully lasted shoetree.

Now what that means is that the shoe tree is literally a copy of thelast that the shoe was built around.

So the shoe tree perfectly matches theshape and the silhouette of the shoe.

So this is a pair of my bespoke GeorgeCleverley shoes and it of course comes with a fully lasted shoe tree.

And so what you can see is that there’s no spring.

It’s normally hinged and the reason is because this last perfectly matches theshoe.

There doesn’t need to be any spring in the barrel because that’s what allowsa shoe tree to fit a range of sizes.

And so the other benefit of a fully lastedshoe tree is that whenever you insert this into the shoe you know again it’sgoing to perfectly restore the shape of the shoe so you can see there’s almostno excess.

It’s coming all the way up the vamp of the shoe.

Super high-qualityshoe tree.

If you ever buy a pair of bespoke shoes, you would never notget the fully lasted bespoke shoe trees.

Now of course a bespoke pair of shoetrees is going to run you several hundred dollars.

You know at John LobbSaint James they can cost as much as a thousand dollars for a bespoke pair ofshoe trees so you know you’re only gonna get those in bespoke shoes but it’sworth the investment if you’re spending several thousand dollars on a pair ofshoes a few hundred dollars on a pair of shoe trees would be you know penny wiseand pound foolish not to buy.

Now the next level of shoe tree is somethingthat’s called a fully lasted shoe tree but it’s not a bespoke shoe tree.

And agreat example is the Gaziano & Girling shoe tree that actually came with theseshoes.

Now what that means is that this shoe tree is developed off of the lastthat this shoe was organized around but they come in a variety of sizes sothere’s a little bit of variation and fit.

Normally a fully lasted shoe tree isgoing to be made one size of shoe tree for every size that a shoe comes in orevery size and a half to two sizes.

And so you can see there’s still a littlebit of spring in this barrel but there’s a lot of shape to the shoe tree and itreally again it has that square toe that you see with a pair of Gazianos.

A high vamp.

Great shoe tree.

A shoe tree like this is going to run you about $150.

Now coincidentally we have a range of shoe trees that we sell here at TheHanger Project that are developed by the same company in North Hampton that makesGaziano shoe tree and it’s really designed too much in the same way.

It’s a much more full shoe tree similar to this double-barrel.

You know nice youknow round heel.

Beautiful finish.

And so if you want this look but you know don’thave a pair of Gaziano shoes, then the shoe trees we have are incredibleoptions.

So the next level of shoe tree is our traditional cedar split toe shoetree.

Now honestly the majority of shoe trees I use in my closet is this ultrashoe tree.

It’s a split toe cedar shoe tree.

For $34.

95 it’s an incredible valuecompared to the hundred fifty dollars you would spend for something like this.

And functionally it’s gonna work just as well as a fully lasted shoe tree.

I meanalmost almost just as well.

And the benefit of a split toe and the longsingle barrel is just that it simply allows this shoe tree to fit a widervariety of shoes.

I mean since it wasn’t made for a particular shoe you know it’sgot to be able to fit a variety of widths, which is what the split toeallows, and it’s got to be able to fit a variety of sizes or at least a range ofsize and that’s what the single barrel does.

And then after this you know wouldbe your traditional cedar shoe tree.

It doesn’t have a split toe.

It probably hasa more narrow heel.

And you know it’s a great shoe tree if that’s all that youcan come by, but the cost difference between that and something like this youknow really top-of-the-line cedar shoe tree that we carry is really less thanten or fifteen dollars and so it’s my recommendation that you just invest alittle bit of extra money and get something that you’re gonna be happywith and that’s gonna take great care of your shoes for many many years.

Sogreat question.

I hope that explains kind of the difference of the spectrum ofshoe trees all the way from your bespoke fully lasted shoe tree all the way downto your traditional just kind of generic cedar shoe tree that you might find at adepartment store.

And I look forward to sending you a pair of our seven gradeshoelaces.

Our fourth question today is from John Alven and it reads, “There are alot of different kinds of shoe trees on the market and some most likely are notas good as others.

What models do you prefer, why doyou prefer them and are there any kinds of shoe trees that you would stay awayfrom? Thanks!” Great question, John.

So you’re right.

There’s a lot of different shoe trees in the market we just explained kind of thefull variation in the last question.

The only thing we probably didn’t mentionwere plastic shoe trees which are great for travel because they’re lightweight, but aren’t something that I would recommend for long-term storage.

And soin all honesty my favorite shoe tree isn’t the most expensive one we sellhere at The Hanger Project.

My favorite shoe tree again is just this simplecedar ultra shoe tree.

I mean it’s everything that a shoe tree needs to be.

It’s affordable.

It’s going to have offer all the support that you need for a pairof shoes.

Now if you want to invest in a more expensive pair of shoe treesbecause you can or because you like the aesthetic of the higher level of finishand kind of the more fully lasted look, by all means.

I mean they are better shoetrees, but this ultra shoe tree right here offers you everything that you needin a proper shoe tree.

So John, you know the type of shoe trees that I wouldgenerally stay away from are either plastic shoe trees or shoe trees without a split toe and a very narrow back of the heel.

You know thoseare the two types of shoe trees that I would absolutely avoid.

Great questionand I look forward to sending you a pair of our sovereign grade shoelaces.

Our lastquestion today is from Nick Mariano and it reads, “I have cap toe creasing onseveral well fitting shoes.

How can I avoid this?” So a great question, Nick.

Sodepending on where the crease is occurring, it could be for severalreasons.

So this is an Allen Edmonds cap toe with a semi brogue and as you cansee all shoes are going to flex at the ball of the foot.

Now if this cap is toofar back, right, it’s designed incorrectly or if itdoesn’t fit correctly you can end up with creasing across the cap of the toe.

Now that shouldn’t be happening because traditionally this area is hardcountered and what that means is that there’s a stiff piece of leatherthat reinforces the cap of the shoe so that it doesn’t crease, but depending onhow it fits and how it was designed you can end up with creasinginto the cap toe.

If that’s the case there’s really little that you can do toprevent that creasing.

It can become annoying because for instance if youhave a nice mirror shine but then the cap is flexing those hard waxes aregonna crack and so the only thing that you can do is really just pull thatmirror shine forward ahead of that crease point.

Now if you end up withcreasing across the vamp of a shoe like what you have right here, shoe trees canhelp resolve that problem.

And it’s not that it’s going to be that it preventscreasing from occurring, it’s just that a shoe pair of shoe trees are just goingto help minimize the appearance of that crease because after you wear themyou’re gonna stretch that leather back straight and it’s gonna prevent thosecreases from permanently forming across the vamp.

And of course you know anyconditioning of the leather or polishing anything that’s going to nourish andcondition the leather itself and keeping it soft and supple will help minimizethose creases by just ensuring that that leather is soft supple and is able to bestretched back straight.

Nick, great question.

We’d love to see these shoesthat you’re speaking about so if you want to snap a photograph of them andpost them on instagram and tag us we’d love to check those out.

Thank you foryour question I look forward to sending you a pair of our sovereign gradeshoelaces.

Now once again I’d like to take a moment to thank everyone fortheir comments and questions.

It’s your engagement on our YouTube channel thatmake these Q&A videos possible.

It allows us to take a moment to acknowledge myappreciation for everyone’s involvement in this channel.

I’ve absolutely enjoyedthis platform, especially how it’s allowed me to connect with you guys anddirectly interact with you and answer your questions.

And remember if youhaven’t taken an opportunity to ask a question or make any comments, I inviteyou to do so.

Even if you don’t have any questions toask, just sharing your opinion or your thoughts about our content helps me makebetter videos.

I read all those questions and comments personally and really doenjoy getting back to as many of them as possible.

In today’s video I’m wearing one of the first suits that I’ve had Chris Desposmake me.

It’s a bespoke suit in a dark charcoal with a really fineherringbone pattern.

This is one of my favorite suits.

I’ve gotten so muchmileage out of it and for someone that’s looking to develop a wardrobe this wouldactually be one of the first pieces I’d recommend they start with.

It’sincredibly versatile.

I could wear during the day, at night, to a wedding, to a funeral.

There’s a very few occasions where this suit wouldn’t be perfectly appropriate.

It has a notched lapel and with the working buttonhole and behind the lapelyou can see that it has a loop for a flower, working buttonholes, tab trouserswith a single standard pleat and uncuffed trousers with a slight breakwhich create a more formal look.

Now the jacket has besim pockets and today I’mactually tucking the flap into the pocket to just give the jacket a moresleek formal look.

I’m wearing my signature white charvet shirt but today ithas French cuffs with gold cufflinks that my wife gave to me as a gift.

Thetie I’m wearing today is a Kirby Allison sovereign grade tie that is a burgundyMacclesfield.

I’m wearing a pair of burgundy silk socks that we offer hereat The Hanger Project with a double pin stripe.

Absolutely beautiful pair ofsocks and what I love about silk socks is their slight sheen.

Perfect for moreformal ensembles.

My pocket square is a silk pocket square from Kent Wang andthen my bespoke George Cleverley seamless whole cut shoes which are really quitemiraculous.

It is a very special shoe made entirely from one piece of leather.

There’s not a single seam on the shoe including the heel.

And the semi broguedesign that you see is actually punched into the upper, they aren’t separatepattern pieces.

So beautiful pair of shoes.

A shoe that you’ll really onlyfind bespoke from someone like George Cleverley.

I have my gold CalatravaPatek Philippe watch and one of my favorite pins the Watermen gold andblack Lalique elegance.

And today I’m wearing our new 18 karat gold sovereigngrade collar stays.

If you enjoyed this video, give us a thumbs up and pleasesubscribe to our channel and turn on your notifications by clicking the bellto the right of the subscribe button so that you can learn whenever we releasenew videos.

If you have any questions or commentsabout anything we discussed on this video please ask them in the comment sectionbelow.

And of course please visit hangerproject.

com where we have the largestmost comprehensive collection of luxury garment care and shoe care accessoriesin the world, as well as, many other incredible products for the well-dressed.

And while you are there subscribe to our newsletter to receive notifications ofnew product launches, promotions, as well as, a weekly digest of all the videos wepublish here on our YouTube channel.

I’m Kirby Allison and thanks for joining us.

.

ROCK Oxfords (Shirts, Not Shoes) | Five Outfits From One Oxford Shirt

How To Look Awesome Wearing An Oxford Shirt[0:00:00] Today’s video, how to look awesome wearingan oxford shirt.

Gentlemen, are you ready? Let’s get into it.

[TIN THOI TRANG]So, let’s start this video off by talking about what is exactly an oxford shirt becausethe word gets thrown around quite a bit and a lot of people are confused.

They think they’re wearing an oxford, they’renot, they think they’re wearing a dress shirt and they’re actually wearing an oxford.

So, the word oxford refers specifically tothe fabric.

Now, let’s talk about what makes oxford fabricoxford fabric.

Really it comes down to it is a basket weaveand this is the key right here multiple weft threads are crossed over an equal number ofwarp threads where the threads of a single color are mixed with white.

So, what we see is oftentimes a dark bluemixed with the white and we get what you see right here, a lighter blue.

If I go in and I look specifically at this, I’m going to see there is a darker blue in there mixed with the white.

So the warp weft basically they’re going overeach other they are mixing to form a lighter color.

So, a lot of oxfords out there are going tobe — they’re going to look like pastels.

Now, the mixing of the white with the darkcolor, you don’t have to always follow that and a lot of mills, they don’t stick withit.

Traditionally, that’s what an oxford was, but nowadays we see a lot of white on white, we see sometimes blue on blue.

It doesn’t always have to go with that, buttraditionally that’s what you would see in an oxford.

So now, you better understand the fabrics.

Let’s talk about oxford styles.

So, the fabric is casual, therefore the shirtstyle should be casual.

Makes sense, right? So, what we’re going to see are things likebutton-down collars.

The soft roll button-down collar is oftentimessynonymous with the word oxford shirt.

Whenever you think of the oxford shirt, manypeople instantly think the button-down collar.

It does not have to have a button-down collar, but it works well with the fabric with the casual overall feel of the shirt.

Now, the pocket over here.

You don’t have to have a pocket with youroxfords, but often times you will see a pocket.

A pocket does make a shirt more casual.

What you’re not going to see on an oxfordthough, you’re not going to see epaulets up here on the shoulders, you’re not goingto see side pockets.

Now, a shirt doesn’t have to have that typeof a collar, it can have actually — this right here is a little bit of a spread collar.

You won’t probably see too many point collarson an oxford.

Not that you can’t wear a tie with an oxford, in fact, I think an oxford looks great with a tie.

But, this one right here went for a sleekeroverall look.

Now, with all this talk about oxford fabricsoxford styles, you may be asking is an oxford shirt an actual dress shirt? The answer is no.

Now, many people wear it as a dress shirtand many people are not going to notice the difference, but an oxford shirt is actuallymade to be worn as outerwear.

A dress shirt is made to be worn under a jacket.

It’s a small distinction, but it’s an importantone to understand, again, where the oxford shirt fits in your wardrobe.

This is something that you can wear withouta jacket.

Now, it looks great layered and worn withother things as I’m about to show you, but this shirt in of itself is not truly a dressshirt, it’s more of a casual button-down I think that looks great.

So, you can wear this with shorts, yes, youcan.

When you roll up the sleeves you can wearit untucked, yes, you can when it’s the right length.

So, that gives actually this shirt a lot moreversatility than a normal dress shirt.

So, here in a second, guys, I’m going to talkabout outfits.

I’m going to talk about how to take theseoxford shirts to match them with jackets, with shoes, with sweaters, with jeans, allthat stuff.

, really quick, if you’re seeing some shirtsthat you like you see some jeans that you like, go grab him over at Mott & Bow, they’rethe paid sponsor in today’s video.

I’m linking to them down in the description.

For over a year, I’ve been working with Mott& Bow wearing their jeans wearing their shirts.

Actually, they just sent me these shirts andI love them.

Guys, there’s a lot of great things I cansay about Mott & Bow, but number one for me is their attention to detail specificallyin their choice of where they’re getting their fabrics.

When I saw that they actually had fabric weightson their website and then they traced it back to these Italian mills that have been aroundfor 200 years, I knew this was a great thing.

Lightweight fabrics you have to worry aboutbecause they could wear out faster, unless they’re coming from a great mill that’s usinga long strand cotton fiber and that’s exactly what these guys were doing.

What that translates into, guys, is you geta very lightweight oxford that is incredibly durable, it feels amazing and you don’t havethe weight — a lot of oxfords they don’t breathe as well, you can’t layer with them, so with a lighter weight oxford like they did here all of a sudden, I can work witheverything I’ve got here.

So, little things like that when I look attheir jeans which I’ve had their jeans now for like a year- and-a-half.

I loved it initially because I’m like lookingat this denim, it was a very lightweight it was a breathable.

I was able to go down to Austin, Texas, godown to other part, you know, just travel in hot areas.

I was in Thailand wearing their jeans andto me, a company that pays attention to their fabrics, I look at the sewing the network, I look at the — the way they put the buttons on, those type of details matter.

[0:04:58]So, this company right here if you want quality jeans, you want a great — I mean the fitworks for me.

I’m 5’9” about 175lbs and I can tellyou that — I mean, they’ve just got a great fit.

So, guys, good company, I’ve worked with themfor quite a while.

Use that limited time discount code.

I’m putting it down there.

It’s the best you’re going to find.

It’s for a limited time.

Go take advantage.

Good company, I highly recommend them.

So first up, we’re going to put together afew outfits with the light blue oxford.

This is a classic look probably the firstoxford I would recommend a man start off with.

Again, it’s got the darker blue mixed withthe white and what we get is this lighter blue.

Very versatile something that, yes, you couldwear it with the button-down you can have the pocket or you could go for a cleaner look.

Me in particular, I probably would go withthis, I just find that this works better for my body build and I like this style, but, hey, if you like the button-down collar, go for it, you’ve got both options.

Now, what are we going to wear with this? I think that this is going to need to be dresseddown.

So knowing that, I could bring in a nice truckerjacket right here.

I’m a big fan of layering with this look.

Now, what am I going to wear for below? I would probably go for chinos, you couldreally even bring in a red pair of chinos, but maybe you want to just go for somethingthat has, you know, more of a tan color to it.

You could also wear a corduroy.

You want to be careful though of wearing jeansthat are of a similar color, you don’t want to go for the Canadian tuxedo there.

So, my next outfit, I’m going to stick withthe same colored shirt, I’m going to go with a dark pair of jeans and I’m going to go withthis sweater right here.

Instantly, what do we notice? It’s probably the collar, the nice shawl collarand also the military-inspired shoulders that extra bit of padding right on here.

Now, this color works particularly for me.

I love greens – olive greens in particular.

I love dark browns.

I love blues.

And, you probably have certain colors yougravitate naturally towards.

Now, what to do about the footwear? So, I’m going to bring in a pair right hereof rugged Chelsea boots.

These are slip-on, they’ve got basically arubber sole.

These are great for traction and I feel thisoverall combination would look great.

Next up, I’m going to take that last combinationand I’m simply going to switch out that sweater or I would layer on top of it.

So, see, I’m going for multiple layers herebecause this brown would work with that green would work with this blue.

Or, I could just ditch the sweater, some ofyou guys may not have liked it and I could just go with this moto-inspired leather jacket.

So, for this the next outfit, I’m simply goingto change out the shirt.

I’m going to wear the same dark-colored jeansand I’m going to go for a more monochromatic look.

Now, many of you guys may be saying, Antonio, is that really an oxford because when I look at this fabric it looks like it’s made fromthe same type of yarn.

Remember, an oxford traditionally had a whiteyarn mixed with a dark-colored yarn, that’s traditionally.

This is a modern interpretation, it does stilluse a basket weave and therefore it can still be classified as an oxford.

Now, because of the dark color, it’s alwaysgoing to be a more casual shirt.

Actually, almost more casual than this oneright here even though it has cleaner style details.

So, what would I mix and match? Well, I could go with the same moto jacketright there, right? Or I could dress it up and I could go forthis look.

I could even bring in a casual tie with thiswear those same dark- colored jeans, maybe go with a laced boot maybe even go with adress shoe if the jeans are tapered fit me well.

So, you can see how you can have fun withthis you can dress it up you can dress it down.

Now, let’s dress things up.

So, we’re going to go ahead and we’re simplygoing to change out the shirt, we’re going to go with the white on white.

For many people, they’re going to thinkthis is a dress shirt, but you know there is a difference.

First off, let’s look at the weave.

It’s got more of a texture to it, it’s gota rougher weave.

This is clearly a basket weave.

Now, next up, you notice the style detailsit’s got the button it’s got the pocket.

Okay, this isn’t oxford.

It’s not technically a dress shirt, but Ican wear it in many ways as one.

So what would you wear with this? Well, if you’re going to dress up those jeans, you could maybe bring in this sports jacket right here.

This one’s going to be — right here see howit works with the white? Brings out the small details right here inthe jacket, but this is all still a casual outfit, but you’ll still be the best-dressedman in the room even though you’re dressing casually.

You could possibly bring in a tie with this, wear this with jeans, maybe with those dress boots.

But, let’s say you want to step it up evenhigher.

Well, that’s where you bring in a casual suit.

So, a casual suit jacket trousers made fromthe same material bring in this white oxford shirt, boom! You’ve got a nice contrast.

This is something that is going to reallylevel up your style.

You could bring in a wide variety of neckties, different colors.

Have fun with it.

Wear this obviously with dress shoes.

You probably would want to go with I thinkan oxblood, maybe a dark brown.

But, again, it depends also on your colors, your complexion, what you really like and what you’ve got in your wardrobe.

All right, gents, now it’s your turn.

Let me know down in the comments what outfitsdid you like, what outfits maybe not so much.

How would you have changed some of the outfitsuggestions? How do you wear your oxford shirts? I want to hear from you guys.

You know I love your comments, I love interactingwith you down there.

And go check out Mott & Bow.

I’m going to link to them down in the description.

Great company.

I love how they pay attention to the fabricto the attention to detail the way they sew on the buttons.

All those small details matter when you wantto look good when you want to dress with style.

Again, guys, I’m going to link to it downin the description.

There’s a discount code down there.

Use it or lose it, guys.

It’s not going to be around forever and Ican tell you that they don’t put them out very often.

And last but not least, gentlemen, I wantto thank you for being a part of the community we’ve created here at Real Men Real Style.

I appreciate you guys reaching out to me foryou giving me feedback on these videos – how I can get better, how I can improve, how Ican give you the information you need to become the man you know yourself to be.

That’s it guys.

Take care.

I’ll see you in the next video.

[0:10:30] End of Audio.

Những kiểu giày nam công sở đang rất thịnh hành và cực ưa chuộng hiện nay

Những đôi giày nam công sở cao cấp điều duy nhất các chàng trai công sở chiếm hữu thể hỏi là liệu quý ông chiếm hữu nhớ đặt chúng lên không. Điều này là bởi điều duy nhất phái mạnh sở hữu thể đặt câu hỏi là anh tài ghi nhớ của phái mạnh để đặt chúng, hoặc thậm chí giả dụ nam giới trải nghiệm khiến. Có mặt trên thị trường đơn giản, công bằng là tối ưu cho những người muốn nhắc không – giày vô nghĩa cho công việc cho phép họ đứng và đứng tha hồ trong đa dạng giờ liền. Trường hợp các chàng trai công sở biết bàn chân của quý ông sẽ trông như thế nào trong tổng thể ngày khiến việc của các chàng trai công sở, với những đôi giày thể thao dành cho người béo nhưng mà nam giới sở hữu thể với và với theo bên mình. Timberland, mong đợi sự khổ sở, mà trường hợp phái mạnh bắt buộc sự thoả thích trên đường đi khiến cho, đây là những đôi giày các chàng trai công sở yêu cầu sở hữu. Mến mộ sở hữu thể điều chỉnh, dây đai và bao phủ bè phái hồi cho bàn chân phổ biến chủ quyền di chuyển, nhưng mà cũng chiếm hữu chỗ để chân chỉnh hình để cung ứng thêm. Những kiểu giày nam công sở đang rất thịnh hành và cực ưa chuộng hiện nay.


Đa dạng thanh nữ đã quen đi giày cao cấp chiếm hữu gót cao và vững mạnh ngón chân cao, do đó họ mang thể với chúng theo phong cách và vô tư trong công sở. Đây vững chắc là 1 trong những đôi giày thanh lịch nhất nhưng mà một người đàn bà với thể tìm giả dụ cô ấy đang mua một đôi giày tha hồ cho công sở. Hình dạng cốt yếu tương tự như phổ biến bạn dạng tóm tắt – trên giày công sở, nhưng mà mang đủ gót để say mê với kích thước của nam giới. Đừng sắm giày cao gót, hưởng thụ có đủ sự tạo ra cho đôi chân của các chàng trai công sở dựa trên hình dạng và hiện tượng. Giày Chelsea Boots thường được khiến cho bằng da bê hoặc da lộn và mang đế bằng da mỏng dính và ngón chân tròn.

Ở gót chân mang một chất liệu vải bằng hữu hồi thích nghi với bàn chân và một gót chân dày, dày mang một ngón chân phẳng. Ra đời ren mở thường làm cho một dòng nhìn giản dị hơn, nhưng giả dụ phái mạnh muốn trông sắc nét Dường như vẫn duy trì phong cách tối giản, giày cao tới mắt cá chân dễ chơi – giày dài – là một lựa tậu nhiều chủng loại. Chúng thường không ham mê cho các sự kiện đáng xem tuxedo, nhưng mà có thể là 1 bửa sung lanh lợi cho 1 ngày tầm thường tại văn phòng hoặc một bữa tiệc tối chính thức. Còn những đôi giày mọi nam đẹp vô cùng linh hoạt và có thể được mặc mang tủ quần áo thông thường như quần jean cũng như sở hữu trang phục long trọng hơn. Giày đế sở hữu phổ biến kiểu, từ phổ biến tới trang trọng và thậm chí bình thường – tới – long trọng – và – giản dị. Khi đông đảo mọi người nghĩ về giày đế bệt, họ chọn những vật phẩm quần lót cổ điển – trên các đôi giày sở hữu thể kéo lên hoặc xuống, nhưng chúng chẳng hề là lựa tìm duy nhất. Giày đế sở hữu thể được mặc có quần jean, quần chinos hoặc quần dài trong bất cứ mùa nào và các chàng trai công sở sở hữu thể mặc chúng mang hoặc không sở hữu vớ. Sự linh hoạt của các đôi giày này là vô tận và trải dài từ các đôi giày da nam hàng hiệu thanh lịch và trang trọng như giày đế bằng đến da lộn màu sáng hơn như da và da lộn gần đến của họ. Kết hợp sở hữu vớ cắt tốt, 1 chiến thắng loa da có thể được mặc sở hữu quần jean, quần chinos, quần hoặc quần và thậm chí mang quần jean và quần. Phương pháp màu sáng hơn là tối ưu để trượt và tắt có Gogo Dường như vẫn duy trì một chiếc nhìn phong cách. Có mặt trên thị trường màu sáng hơn này là tuyệt hảo cho việc trượt, trượt và sẽ vẫn sở hữu được nguyên tắc của phái mạnh. Ví như quý ông công sở chỉ có một đôi giày cả ngày, một đôi màu nâu mang dây đeo đôi tu sĩ sẽ là một lựa tìm tuyệt hảo. Sự công bình của các đôi giày này say mê nhất có bộ đồng phục tuyệt hảo, giản dị của quý ông sở hữu bộ đồng phục thông minh, giản dị của quý ông công sở. Giúp đỡ hình bóng hợp lý để đi không sock, các đôi giày lười này là 1 lựa sắm mưu trí cho 1 mẫu nhìn giản dị, giản dị hoặc 1 thành tích nhìn trọng thể hơn.

Trường hợp quy tắc ăn mặc ở nơi làm cho việc của bạn là hợp lý, rẻ nhất cần tránh dép, do đó hãy để mắt tới lúc tậu. Đối chiếm hữu một số nơi khiến việc, các đôi giày lười nam này sở hữu vẻ quá giản dị, mà chúng hoạt động thấp khi bạn ăn mặc cho một dịp trọng thể hơn, chẳng hạn như một cuộc họp buôn bán hoặc bữa tiệc tối chính thức. Nếu trang phục của quý ông hơi tha hồ tại nơi làm việc, phái mạnh chiếm hữu thể khiến việc đó cũng như ở nhà. Đừng quên đôi dép nam cho công sở, đặc thù giả dụ thời tiết ấm áp hoặc phái mạnh muốn chiếm hữu 1 bộ trang phục giản dị hơn ở nơi khiến cho việc. Có mặt trên thị trường sở hữu dép nam khi đi làm: Để giữ mẫu mã tuyệt vời, hãy sắm 1 phụ kiện mule da sang trọng và đoàn kết nó chiếm hữu một bộ đồ hoặc tậu trang phục tối thượng, mang thể là 1 đôi giày lười da, áo khoác da hoặc thậm chí là áo khoáccaravat . Khi kể đến giày nam cho văn phòng, không mang gì sai chiếm hữu Oxford. Nếu quý ông công sở tậu Oxford, quý ông không với bản lĩnh bị gạt bởi vì nó siêu thoả thích và tiện lợi. Derby được kết hợp phải chăng nhất chiếm hữu một đôi giày đế bằng da, 1 con la bằng da hoặc thậm chí là một tác phẩm Derby, chiếm hữu sự liên hiệp mưu trí giữa sự vô tư, thoải mái và đẳng cấp. Trường hợp quý ông ko vững chắc, Herring Shoes online hỗ trợ tùy tìm tùy chỉnh quần hữu ích cho phép người mua xem trước các đôi giày nam đẹp sẽ trông như thế nào trong các dòng quần khác nhau trước khi mua. Có sự ngày càng tăng gần đây về sự bình thường của trang phục công sở, chúng ta đã thấy các bộ đồ màu xanh và hải quân, nhưng mà các màu này được liên hiệp rẻ nhất sở hữu đôi giày đen lợi ích. Điều đấy nói rằng, phong cách trọng thể vẫn là sự lựa chọn tốt nhất cho một vật phẩm nhìn giản dị, giản dị, không phải là một thi công chính thức, và màu sắc này liên minh tốt nhất mang một đôi giày màu đen trơn.

Paul Evans Cagney Cap Toe Oxfords Unboxing | Luxury Italian Dress Shoes

hey gents today we’re taking a look at my new Oxford’s from Paul Evans and it talked about stepping up your shoe game Paul Evans our luxury Italian dress shoes but there at what should be more reasonable prices they’re positioning themselves really against Berluti or Salvatore Ferragamo Gucci they don’t really consider themselves to be in the Alan and Vince class but they’re near Allen Edmonds price so it’s a very interesting shoe definitely the highest end shoe that I’ve ever had and puts dive into them here I will link to them below actually I had Paul Evans sock sent to me one of my subscription boxes and I’ve been happy with them so far I’m more of an over the calf’s kind of guy but I do find myself coming back to these to have the support and the in the middle of the shoes like I like and so I’ve been curious about Paul Evans for a while and I’m excited to take a look today and I also want to talk about the pricing of the leather because that’s I think the utmost interest part let’s jump in here to 11 if these are the cagney cap toe Oxford and I ordered a 10 in these because they say to do a full size down in your shoe because I guess they run very large and so see how well these will fit we have all of this here have included dust bag you t fool now what I’m most curious about with these shoes is about the leather so one of the things that I was talking to a cobbler about was with the quality of weather that determines how well it would up over time and how good it will continue to look so even right out of the box these are the Beckham Simenon hole cut Oxford’s that I just unboxed you can see the crease on the shoe and a certain light and that’s just from wearing them for a couple of days you know talking to cobblers and shoe shines if you have higher-end weathers and you won’t get those creases and that’s what these should be all about so these are a size 10 I typically wear a size 12 or 13 so they might if they truly run that big will be very interesting they are a beautiful color I love the finish on these and just a very subtle nice oxford so get them on my foot oh and then a metal shoehorn that’s nice a couple plastic ones first metal one Paul Evans there I’m kind of surprised it tends to actually fit really well and I’m normally at 12 and a dress shoe so I think it ordered again I’ll get a ten and a half because these are just a little snug but I really like the way that they feel now I’ll give these the New York City treatment I’ll wear these you know airplanes travel everything else so I can’t speak yet but the leather feels really nice out of the box it has increased in my just limited walking around the house here like some of my other leather shoes have and this really falls into the place in my previous back in sitting on video I talked about you can spend a little bit more to get a higher quality shoe or a little bit less to get lower quality this is where you’re spending a little bit more but you’re getting much higher quality shoes you’re getting I mean they position themselves like I said against the Ferragamo sand the Gucci that’s a very high-end very luxurious leather these are a leather sole a constructed shoe so it’s one of the shoes you take care of and you get resold and you get worked on and you have for many many years the leather out of the box feels amazing love the color that this looks the pictures don’t quite do it justice on their website and so I’m really liking the way that these feel you can definitely feel this is a premium Italian leather they look and feel really good so I will be looking forward to breaking these in and giving you an update as I go but $4.

99 for the average price of a Paul Evan shoe is definitely an investment but this should be one where if you get this they will look solid for many years so my beckon Simenon shoes definitely show their wear over time even if you do condition the weather and everything it’s a certain quality of leather I mean but that occupies a certain price point at $1.

99 and so I’m really interested to die a little bit more into this higher-end shoe game so comparing these two to the Allen Edmonds but also comparing these I’ll have to go into a Nordstrom store I’m not going to I don’t think I’m going to buy any Ferragamo but if you have any questions or things that I should look out for as I go through my try on over the next few weeks and months please let me know in the comments as always make sure you subscribe to learn about the best menswear on the Internet you can also be check me out at the underscore Cavalier on Twitter and Instagram I’ve got something pretty cool coming up in the next hopefully in the next few days but can’t be certain about that and until next time gents this is the Cavalier [Music] keep quiet loving communities you can a lay in your bed all day your best kept secret weapon every day keep quiet nothing can move me you gonna lay in your bed okay I’ll be able to secure than you please explain every day.

Oxford Shoes Guide – How To Wear, Buy & Combine Men’s Oxfords

Welcome back to The Gentleman’s Gazette! Today’svideo is all about oxfords, one of the most classic, timeless and versatile shoes a mancan have.

What exactly is an oxford shoe? Its history datesback centuries and if you want to learn all the details about it, please check out ourin-depth guide on our website, here.

So what exactly is an oxford? First, it’sdefined by its quarters which are closed unlike a derby where they’re open.

Then we have avamp like here, the ankle is exposed.

You usually have a cap-toe and a center seam.

To learn more about the details of an oxford and how it differs from a derby or a blucher, please check ou this video.

As explained, the oxford is just defined by these few characteristicsand as such, there are many different kinds out there.

Let’s do a run through so you knowexactly what is what.

The first and most important oxford you shouldhave is the so-called cap-toe oxford and it’s called that way because it has the cap-toe.

Basically, what you’re looking for is a shoe with a cap-toe, no broguing which means nohole perforations that’s all black with neat lines and elegant last.

This is in fact, thevery first black oxford I bought as a teenager and I still have it today simply because it’sso timeless and versatile.

The second shoe you can have is the plainoxford.

Basically, it’s like a cap-toe oxford, it just lacks the cap-toe and sometimes youcan see a medallion on them but then it’s not a plain oxford anymore.

Usually, the plainoxford is favored in patent leather for evening shoes so you can wear it with a tuxedo.

So, how should you wear these oxfords? LikeI said, first one should be in black.

If you have another cap-toe oxford, you can go witha solid, dark brown one that’s going to be versatile or burgundy.

Plain oxfords are bestin patent leathers for evening wear and nothing else.

The third oxford on our list is the so-calledwingtip oxford or brogue.

Basically, what that means, it has a wingtip in front thatis like a W and we did an entire video just about this kind of style so, take a look atit, here.

The fourth kind of oxford is the so-calledsaddle oxford or saddle shoe.

It has the same closed lacing system but it has a middle stripof leather which is called a saddle.

It’s particularly popular in the US and outsidethe US, it never really caught on.

It’s a more casual style and I suggest you only wearit if you’re big into Americana or you just want to create a preppy outfit otherwise, it looks out of place.

The next oxford is the so-called kiltie oxford.

It’s very rare and it actually has an additional tongue on the outside which looks a littlebit like a kilt hence the name and it’s sometimes seen on golf shoes.

Other than that, I reallydon’t suggest you wear the kiltie unless you have a very specific look in mind but it looksvery special and unique and people will definitely ask you about it.

A very elegant form of the oxford is the so-calledwhole cut.

It’s called that way because it is cut from one whole piece of leather.

Generally, it has just one center seam in the back and it’s very popular these days.

The only problemwith the whole cut is that if it’s made out of a ready to wear shoe oftentimes, it wrinklesmore easily simple because it’s one piece of leather that is shaped to your last sokeep that in mind when you invest in one.

The next step up from the whole cut is theso-called seamless oxford and all that means is that there’s actually not a single seamso you have to get a very good hide that adjusts to the entire last and that’s why it’s onlysomething you often see in bespoke shoes.

Seamless and whole cuts are very sleek andelegant shoes that sometimes, they have a medallion on top and you can wear them withsuits but if you have them in brown and burgundy colors, also with sportcoat combinations.

Overall though, I’d say it’s more in the formal end of things just because of the clean lineand the lack of seams.

Another type of Oxford is the so-called Utip and it’s similar to a wing tip but it has that U shape when you look at it fromthe top.

It often comes as a spectator, as you can see here, with two tones and basically, it’s a very loud shoe, it’s a usual shoe and therefore, it’s only suggested if you wantto create an outfit that is defined and that catches people’s eyes.

That being said, one of the ways to get reallya lot out of your oxfords is to change the color of your shoelaces.

While a pair of shoescan cost you $200, $300 or $2000, a pair of shoelaces cost about ten bucks and it canreally change the entire look.

This brown shoe here looks very different with yellowlaces.

For example, you can add green or red or just brown laces and basically, with asimple twist, you get an entirely different shoe and it makes the shoe more casual.

If you want to invest in some oxfords to start, I suggest you get a black cap toe oxford with black shoelaces and then a few other colorssuch as red or yellow or burgundy and even purple works.

As a second shoe, I suggestyou get a half brogue or full brogue, mid brown oxford and if you want to go a stepfurther, you can get either a tan or a burgundy red one.

For example, these two would be goodoptions for first two shoes.

As you grow your shoe collection, you can expand in more unusualmodels such as this white, full brogue which is great in summer or this spectator shoewhich looks great with a plain, navy suit or striped suit.

Of course, there are lotsof other color combinations for oxfords and since it’s such a classic, versatile and timelesslast and style, you will find basically anything under the sun.

If you want to find out what brands we recommend, please check out our in-depth guide and if you want to buy high-quality colorful shoelacesin round and flat and different shapes, please check out our shop.

Make sure to check outthe article because no matter your budget, we have an option for low, middle and high-end.

.

How to Wear Brown Shoes | Men’s Leather Dress Shoes Oxford Derby

Welcome back to the Gentleman’s Gazette! Intoday’s video, we’re going to talk about how to wear brown shoes, how to combine them andwhen not to wear brown shoes.

In the 19th century, Beau Brummel set thetone for men’s fashion.

He was a big proponent of black eveningwear and so people also woreblack shoes.

At that time, rules like “No brown in town” or “No brown after six” justensured that people dressed in a socially acceptable way.

By the 1930s, Edward, theprince of Wales, became the Arbiter Elegantiarum and he basically dictated what people wore.

If hewould wear something, the general public would pick it up shortly thereafter and he was abig fan of brown slip on shoes.

Oftentimes, he would wear brown and white Spectator shoesand so brown became more acceptable in the general public.

If you want to learn moreabout history, check out our article on How to wear brown shoes here.

Today, dress codes are much more relaxed thanthey were fifteen or sixteen years ago.

If you wear a well-fitting suit today or a combination, you are much better dressed than the average person.

So “No brown in town” or “No brownafter six” are simply not valid anymore.

What matters is that you look good.

It’s much betterto wear a well-fitting suit in Brown shoes than to wear an ill-fitting suit with blackshoes in town after 6 pm.

Most debonair Italians I know only wear black shoes for funerals, for weddings and for black tie, white tie events.

Otherwise, they go with brown andso can you.

One of the really nice things about brown leather is that it develops apatina, unlike black shoes.

That means over time, you get this nice look of the leatherand it’s really pleasant and it’s not something you can achieve with dark shoes.

Also, youcan really see leather textures on brown shoes much better such as scotch grain, or pebblegrain or suede.

With black, they just disappear.

Generally, it is important to keep in mindthat shoes with more texture and more broguing are less formal and shoes that are plain, cap-toe leather Oxfords are more formal regardless of their color.

So, when should you wear brownshoes? Well, Brown shoes could be worn with almost anything ranging from jeans of cavalrytwill to corduroy, flannel and worsteds or tweeds.

Unlike black, brown comes in a varietyof shades so you can really create a unique color palette in your shoe closet.

Here aresome guidelines on how to wear brown shoes but keep in mind that it’s just that.

It’sa guideline and it’s never absolute.

It’s just here to help you create your own look.

So first, let’s start with business suits.

Three piece business suits, two-piece businesssuits, solid, small patterns, fine stripes, Glen plaids, this is what we’re talking abouthere right now.

If your suit is black, you should wear black shoes.

When you should havea black suit to begin with, is another question but don’t combine black suits with brown shoes.

Just stick with black.

For Charcoal suits, I personally prefer black over brown, evendark brown because I think it just works together much better.

Definitely avoid Tan and youcan try it with a dark reddish brown or red pair of shoes.

For mid-grey suits, black worksbut in terms of brown, you can really start combining now, you can wear dark brown, maybeburgundy red and you can even try lighter shades of brown.

For dark Navy suits, blackis an option but you really want to go with brown for a more modern look.

I think burgundyis outstanding, tan can work, mid brown can work and it’s really all up to you and howmuch contrast you want to create.

For a lighter navy, I think black oftentimes looks betterbut again, you can try to ease in with darker shades of brown, chocolate brown, medium brown, maybe add suede as a texture to counteract the worsted business suit style and can workreally really well.

If you wear a dark brown business suit such as a charcoal brown whichwe talked about here, you definitely want to wear brown shoes.

Make sure to get a littlebit of contrast, can be chocolate brown, medium brown and since it’s business, try to stayin the darker shade of brown area and don’t go with tan.

Okay, to sum it up, black remainsthe number one color for business suits and when you’re in doubt, stick with black.

Yourfirst pair of shoes should be a black pair of cap toe Oxfords, brown also works, stickwith darker shades, not so much broguing or plain leathers and maybe throw in a pair ofsuede to mix it up and create an interesting look.

Two, casual suits are just bolder andtheir colors have louder patterns, maybe interesting textures such as corduroy or cotton linenblends and brown shoes work really well here.

For green suits and jackets, I think brownis the only way to go.

Avoid black and I like suede a lot because it has this really lovelytexture that makes things matte but relaxed.

Personally, I combine it with all shades ofbrown and depends on is it a light green, is it a dark olive green so you basicallypick and choose whatever you like.

For Khakis, dark brown works well or reddish browns ormid browns especially if they’re like tan, khaki, beige and it’s really versatile andlooks much better than anything black so stay away from black and try to keep enough contrastbetween your khakis, your pants and your shoes.

If you have tan colors, what’s really greatis Cordovan or Burgundy red.

In fact.

this is one of those shades which is almost notbrown any more but it’s so super versatile and that it shouldn’t miss in your shoe closet.

If you don’t know what kind of pair of brown shoes you want to get, start with somethingreddish brown, it will truly go with almost anything you have in your closet.

With whiteand off-white combinations, I like to wear tan.

Of course, you can also go with darkershades of brown and ultimately, you have to figure it out.

I just find the tan has a mildercontrast without blending in and so it looks really nice.

For any kind of brown, casualsuits, you can wear only brown and I really like to wear spectators in white and brownwith it, of course that’s really loud and a really strong contrast, you’d have to comfortablewith it.

If it’s too much for you, no problem, go maybe with a darker brown or chocolatebrown but always make sure to create enough contrast between the shade of brown and yourshoes.

Three, sport coat and odd jacket combinations and fabrics with more texture.

So if you havecorduroy, donegal, saxony, all of these kinds of rich woven texture and strong fabrics, you are even more casual and so you should only wear brown, try to go with broguing, suede or scotch grain rather than just plain cap-toe oxfords because it really kind ofworks much better with these kinds of garments.

If you have dark or even black corduroy hence, you can wear tan shoes or tan boots and it creates a really nice contrast and it workssurprisingly well.

Otherwise, I would say stick with black but tan for this more casualform of black garment is much better.

For charcoal grey flannels, I think black is betterbut you can try it with dark brown and see if it works well together.

I think that itcan look very nice and it’s not too contrasting but the look overall is very debonair.

Withmid grey, I suggest you go with burgundy red, black will work well but since it’s more casual, I think this is a much more suitable color and definitely avoid tan because it’s justtoo strong of a color and it doesn’t look nice with a mid grey.

With blue garments, I basically wear any shade of brown.

It really depends on my mood and what I’m going for.

Of course If i wear dark chocolate brown, the whole combination is less noticeable.

If I wear a bright tan, it really stands out more but you can really wear an entire range.

So if you really have a lot of blue suits, it really doesn’t matter what kind of brownshoes you wear with them, anything works.

With denim, you should avoid wearing blackand most browns work well but I think that a medium, reddish brown like this one or aburgundy red work best.

Make sure your shoes have some broguing.

I think Derby shoes arebetter than Oxfords and it really works well together because it underlines the casualcharacter of your jeans with the more casual look of the shoe.

With any kind of green shades, you should go with brown shoes every time.

Avoid black and I think dark works reallywell.

For casual garments, if you want brown tones, khakis, tans and so forth, you canreally play around with brown.

I would say try wearing boots because they add anotherelement of casualness especially with thicker soles and broguing.

Overall, brown is thebest shoe color for sport coat combinations and odd contrasting trousers so to start, I think you should have at least, three pairs of brown shoes.

One would be a burgundy redshoe, can be with plain leather.

Then the next one would be a dark chocolate brown Derbyfull brogue so you have that and then a medium red brown, it can be Oxford, may be half brogueand that will cover your entire range.

In the beginning, avoid things like tan, or avoidspectators simply because these shoes only work with much fewer outfits and in the beginningyou want to make sure that you can wear almost any shoe you have in your closet with almostanything you have in your wardrobe so you can create a lot of unique different outfits.

Now that you know when to wear brown shoes, the question becomes when not to wear brown shoes? So, number one rule would be, do notwear brown with any sort of eveningwear, black tie, white tie or even formal three piecesuits that are dark and charcoal.

You should always stick with black.

Also if you are ata wedding and if you wear maybe a stroller suit, when you think about wearing a morningcoat, black is the only suitable color.

If you work in a very white collar environment, let’s say a traditional law firm, maybe a bank, I would also say when in doubt, stickwith black.

if you want to test the waters, maybe go with a dark burgundy red but avoidreally light colors like tan at all costs.

Other than that, brown shoes are a reallygreat investment into your wardrobe because they’re so versatile, they look great witheverything, you can create a beautiful patina, you polish them properly and also think aboutgoing with suede because it adds this softer texture but you should avoid it if in yourarea, it rains a lot because suede does not really age well when it gets wet.

If you enjoyed this video, please check outour article about how to wear brown shoes which is much more comprehensive and signup for our newsletter so you’ll never miss a video again.

Thank you.

.