Hi, I’m Kirby Allison and we love helpingthe well-dressed take care of their wardrobes.
Thanks forall your comments and questions that you guys have posted on our YouTube channel.
After reading them all and answering as many as possible, I’ve selected five thatwe’re going to feature in today’s Q&A video.
Each of these individuals willreceive a complimentary pair of our sovereign grade shoelaces as a token ofour appreciation for their participation in our channel.
The topic of today’s Q&Avideo is going to be about a truly essential component of shoe care–shoetrees.
Remember if you have any questions or comments while you’re watching one ofour videos, please ask them in the comment section.
I try to get back to asmany of these questions as possible.
And of course if you have any questionsabout shoe trees, this is the video to ask them in.
The first question intoday’s Q&A video is from Tommy Tuber1.
Thanks Tommy for your question.
It reads, “As a college student, I’ve gotten by with plastic shoe trees or stuffing newspaper.
Maybe it’s time to get a cedarwood shoe tree.
Are there many benefits?” A greatquestion Tommy.
I feel that shoe trees are one of the most essential thingsthat you can invest on to really take care of a pair of shoes.
And thebeautiful thing about a pair of shoe trees is once you buy a pair itreally will last forever.
I mean there’s very little that can go wrong or wearout on a shoe tree, so I highly recommend investing a few extra dollars to investin a really high-quality wooden shoe tree that you know that you’ll be happywith for years if not decades.
So Tommy I really applaud your resourcefulness andyou know using a plastic shoe tree or newspaper is absolutely the right thingto do if you don’t have a proper pair of cedar shoe trees because it’s better todo something than nothing at all.
Now the primary reason to use a wooden or acedar shoe tree is that of course the wood is much more rigid than plastic ornewspaper and it’s going to do a better job really maintaining the shape of theshoe.
The second benefit of the cedar shoe tree is its moisture wickingcapabilities, right.
So cedar is a very absorbentwood and so after you take off a pair of shoes its absorbed quite a bit ofmoisture throughout the day as you perspire while you’re wearing your shoes.
So it’s important that you allow that moisture to escape the shoe and don’ttrap it in there.
Now the cedar shoe trees that we sell here at The HangerProject are the ultra model from Woodlore.
It’s a $34 95 cent shoe tree whichis actually an incredibly good price for a shoe tree of this quality.
This sameshoe tree in Europe would be at least twice as expensive and what I love aboutthe ultra is it’s a traditional split toe shoe, right, so it’s going to fit awide variety of different widths.
It has a very high vamp which is going tosupport the forward part of the shoe.
It’s got a very nice kind of deep springto the barrel so it’s gonna again provide that tension.
And the mostimportant feature of the ultra shoe tree is it has a very generous and round heel, right, that’s going to distribute the pressure evenly over the heel of theshoe which will help maintain that shape.
What I don’t like are the cedar shoetrees that are very narrow in the back because inevitably what you have is allthat pressure pushing on a very narrow part of the back heel which can deformor distort the shape of the back of the shoe.
Tommy, great question and I totallysupport investing in a few pair of high quality cedar shoe trees.
You know ifyou’ve just graduated college you don’t have money to purchase them for all yourshoes at once, you know it’s something that you can easily do over the courseof several months.
So Tommy, great question and I look forward to sendingyou a pair of our sovereign grade shoelaces.
Our second question today isfrom Jeremy Emilio and it reads, “How tight should shoe trees be?” So Jeremy, great question.
It’s a question that we’ve received often here at The HangerProject and the answer is is that you want your shoe trees to really be astight as possible without being so tight that you really have to force the shoetree with a lot of effort into the shoe.
Now the reason you want your shoe treesto be tight is again you want that tension in the spring of the barrel toreally pull that shoe tree flat to straighten all the wrinkles and creasingout of the vamp.
And so I’ll show you here I’ve gotactually three different sizes of our cedar shoe trees.
I’ve got our smallwhich would be recommended for something smaller than a nine or a nine and a half.
I have our medium which is recommended for about a nine and a half to abouteleven.
And then I have our large which is recommended for ten and half elevenor larger.
Now I wear a U.
nine and a half shoe and so this is a pair of myGaziano Girling shoes and you can see there’s very little creasing across thevamp here and the reason is because I use shoe trees.
Now the purpose of theshoe tree is after you wear a shoe all day you’re gonna take it off and it’sgonna naturally kind of bow upwards right because you’ve been flexing theshoe.
And so the purpose of the shoe tree is to straighten that shoe flat to pullthe creasing out of the leather so that as that leather dries after you’ve wornit, remember it’s been absorbing the perspiration of your foot throughout theday, that those creases don’t get memorized into the leather.
So it’simportant that your shoe tree exerts enough tension to straighten the shoe.
Solet’s say okay so you’ve worn the shoe all day.
This is the small which ishonestly too small for this shoe.
So I’m putting it in here and you can see itreally just drops right into the shoe.
There’s not much tension.
There’s notmuch compression.
I can still crease the shoe right, so it’s not holding muchtension on that shoe.
That shoe tree is too small, right.
Now if I take the largewhich is too large.
For one you can see that the front forward part of the shoetree is too wide for the particular shoe.
That’s going to be the first problem soit’s not going to insert itself all the way in.
And then second I’m having toreally compress the barrel almost a hundred percent, right.
So I’ve got if yousee this fully compressed literally less than one centimeter probably half of acentimeter of room and I really have to work hard to get that in there.
Now thatshoe tree is too large.
You look at a medium which is just theright size.
I like to push that shoe tree in and then I’m going to extend thatbarrel and as you can see it still flexes a little bit but not much right and so this shoe tree is the perfect size.
So a little trick after you insertyour shoe trees is that I always take my shoe and just flex it flat so againthat’s just helping to provide a little bit more tension to straighten that shoeand allow that shoe tree to fully expand inside to ensure that it’s properlyseated into the shoe.
Now Jeremy if you have any questions about the proper sizetake a look at our sizing guide that we have on all of our shoe trees or feelfree to call customer service or send us an email.
We’re more than happy to walkyou through the sizing process and as with all of our products here at TheHanger Project if you order a pair of shoe trees from us just like withhangers and it doesn’t fit perfectly we’re happy to exchange that totallyfree of charge.
Jeremy, great question and I look forward to sending you a pair ofour sovereign grade shoelaces.
Our third question today is from Compnor-97 andhis question reads, “Does it matter if the shoe tree is the last of the shoe orwould a generic for the lack of a better term be okay? I’m guessing yes, but thenwhat exactly is the difference? Thanks.
” So this is an excellent question.
So there’sseveral different styles of shoe trees.
You know the the highest end shoe trees, you know the highest quality that you can get is a bespoke fully lasted shoetree.
Now what that means is that the shoe tree is literally a copy of thelast that the shoe was built around.
So the shoe tree perfectly matches theshape and the silhouette of the shoe.
So this is a pair of my bespoke GeorgeCleverley shoes and it of course comes with a fully lasted shoe tree.
And so what you can see is that there’s no spring.
It’s normally hinged and the reason is because this last perfectly matches theshoe.
There doesn’t need to be any spring in the barrel because that’s what allowsa shoe tree to fit a range of sizes.
And so the other benefit of a fully lastedshoe tree is that whenever you insert this into the shoe you know again it’sgoing to perfectly restore the shape of the shoe so you can see there’s almostno excess.
It’s coming all the way up the vamp of the shoe.
Super high-qualityshoe tree.
If you ever buy a pair of bespoke shoes, you would never notget the fully lasted bespoke shoe trees.
Now of course a bespoke pair of shoetrees is going to run you several hundred dollars.
You know at John LobbSaint James they can cost as much as a thousand dollars for a bespoke pair ofshoe trees so you know you’re only gonna get those in bespoke shoes but it’sworth the investment if you’re spending several thousand dollars on a pair ofshoes a few hundred dollars on a pair of shoe trees would be you know penny wiseand pound foolish not to buy.
Now the next level of shoe tree is somethingthat’s called a fully lasted shoe tree but it’s not a bespoke shoe tree.
And agreat example is the Gaziano & Girling shoe tree that actually came with theseshoes.
Now what that means is that this shoe tree is developed off of the lastthat this shoe was organized around but they come in a variety of sizes sothere’s a little bit of variation and fit.
Normally a fully lasted shoe tree isgoing to be made one size of shoe tree for every size that a shoe comes in orevery size and a half to two sizes.
And so you can see there’s still a littlebit of spring in this barrel but there’s a lot of shape to the shoe tree and itreally again it has that square toe that you see with a pair of Gazianos.
A high vamp.
Great shoe tree.
A shoe tree like this is going to run you about $150.
Now coincidentally we have a range of shoe trees that we sell here at TheHanger Project that are developed by the same company in North Hampton that makesGaziano shoe tree and it’s really designed too much in the same way.
It’s a much more full shoe tree similar to this double-barrel.
You know nice youknow round heel.
And so if you want this look but you know don’thave a pair of Gaziano shoes, then the shoe trees we have are incredibleoptions.
So the next level of shoe tree is our traditional cedar split toe shoetree.
Now honestly the majority of shoe trees I use in my closet is this ultrashoe tree.
It’s a split toe cedar shoe tree.
95 it’s an incredible valuecompared to the hundred fifty dollars you would spend for something like this.
And functionally it’s gonna work just as well as a fully lasted shoe tree.
I meanalmost almost just as well.
And the benefit of a split toe and the longsingle barrel is just that it simply allows this shoe tree to fit a widervariety of shoes.
I mean since it wasn’t made for a particular shoe you know it’sgot to be able to fit a variety of widths, which is what the split toeallows, and it’s got to be able to fit a variety of sizes or at least a range ofsize and that’s what the single barrel does.
And then after this you know wouldbe your traditional cedar shoe tree.
It doesn’t have a split toe.
It probably hasa more narrow heel.
And you know it’s a great shoe tree if that’s all that youcan come by, but the cost difference between that and something like this youknow really top-of-the-line cedar shoe tree that we carry is really less thanten or fifteen dollars and so it’s my recommendation that you just invest alittle bit of extra money and get something that you’re gonna be happywith and that’s gonna take great care of your shoes for many many years.
I hope that explains kind of the difference of the spectrum ofshoe trees all the way from your bespoke fully lasted shoe tree all the way downto your traditional just kind of generic cedar shoe tree that you might find at adepartment store.
And I look forward to sending you a pair of our seven gradeshoelaces.
Our fourth question today is from John Alven and it reads, “There are alot of different kinds of shoe trees on the market and some most likely are notas good as others.
What models do you prefer, why doyou prefer them and are there any kinds of shoe trees that you would stay awayfrom? Thanks!” Great question, John.
So you’re right.
There’s a lot of different shoe trees in the market we just explained kind of thefull variation in the last question.
The only thing we probably didn’t mentionwere plastic shoe trees which are great for travel because they’re lightweight, but aren’t something that I would recommend for long-term storage.
And soin all honesty my favorite shoe tree isn’t the most expensive one we sellhere at The Hanger Project.
My favorite shoe tree again is just this simplecedar ultra shoe tree.
I mean it’s everything that a shoe tree needs to be.
It’s going to have offer all the support that you need for a pairof shoes.
Now if you want to invest in a more expensive pair of shoe treesbecause you can or because you like the aesthetic of the higher level of finishand kind of the more fully lasted look, by all means.
I mean they are better shoetrees, but this ultra shoe tree right here offers you everything that you needin a proper shoe tree.
So John, you know the type of shoe trees that I wouldgenerally stay away from are either plastic shoe trees or shoe trees without a split toe and a very narrow back of the heel.
You know thoseare the two types of shoe trees that I would absolutely avoid.
Great questionand I look forward to sending you a pair of our sovereign grade shoelaces.
Our lastquestion today is from Nick Mariano and it reads, “I have cap toe creasing onseveral well fitting shoes.
How can I avoid this?” So a great question, Nick.
Sodepending on where the crease is occurring, it could be for severalreasons.
So this is an Allen Edmonds cap toe with a semi brogue and as you cansee all shoes are going to flex at the ball of the foot.
Now if this cap is toofar back, right, it’s designed incorrectly or if itdoesn’t fit correctly you can end up with creasing across the cap of the toe.
Now that shouldn’t be happening because traditionally this area is hardcountered and what that means is that there’s a stiff piece of leatherthat reinforces the cap of the shoe so that it doesn’t crease, but depending onhow it fits and how it was designed you can end up with creasinginto the cap toe.
If that’s the case there’s really little that you can do toprevent that creasing.
It can become annoying because for instance if youhave a nice mirror shine but then the cap is flexing those hard waxes aregonna crack and so the only thing that you can do is really just pull thatmirror shine forward ahead of that crease point.
Now if you end up withcreasing across the vamp of a shoe like what you have right here, shoe trees canhelp resolve that problem.
And it’s not that it’s going to be that it preventscreasing from occurring, it’s just that a shoe pair of shoe trees are just goingto help minimize the appearance of that crease because after you wear themyou’re gonna stretch that leather back straight and it’s gonna prevent thosecreases from permanently forming across the vamp.
And of course you know anyconditioning of the leather or polishing anything that’s going to nourish andcondition the leather itself and keeping it soft and supple will help minimizethose creases by just ensuring that that leather is soft supple and is able to bestretched back straight.
Nick, great question.
We’d love to see these shoesthat you’re speaking about so if you want to snap a photograph of them andpost them on instagram and tag us we’d love to check those out.
Thank you foryour question I look forward to sending you a pair of our sovereign gradeshoelaces.
Now once again I’d like to take a moment to thank everyone fortheir comments and questions.
It’s your engagement on our YouTube channel thatmake these Q&A videos possible.
It allows us to take a moment to acknowledge myappreciation for everyone’s involvement in this channel.
I’ve absolutely enjoyedthis platform, especially how it’s allowed me to connect with you guys anddirectly interact with you and answer your questions.
And remember if youhaven’t taken an opportunity to ask a question or make any comments, I inviteyou to do so.
Even if you don’t have any questions toask, just sharing your opinion or your thoughts about our content helps me makebetter videos.
I read all those questions and comments personally and really doenjoy getting back to as many of them as possible.
In today’s video I’m wearing one of the first suits that I’ve had Chris Desposmake me.
It’s a bespoke suit in a dark charcoal with a really fineherringbone pattern.
This is one of my favorite suits.
I’ve gotten so muchmileage out of it and for someone that’s looking to develop a wardrobe this wouldactually be one of the first pieces I’d recommend they start with.
I could wear during the day, at night, to a wedding, to a funeral.
There’s a very few occasions where this suit wouldn’t be perfectly appropriate.
It has a notched lapel and with the working buttonhole and behind the lapelyou can see that it has a loop for a flower, working buttonholes, tab trouserswith a single standard pleat and uncuffed trousers with a slight breakwhich create a more formal look.
Now the jacket has besim pockets and today I’mactually tucking the flap into the pocket to just give the jacket a moresleek formal look.
I’m wearing my signature white charvet shirt but today ithas French cuffs with gold cufflinks that my wife gave to me as a gift.
Thetie I’m wearing today is a Kirby Allison sovereign grade tie that is a burgundyMacclesfield.
I’m wearing a pair of burgundy silk socks that we offer hereat The Hanger Project with a double pin stripe.
Absolutely beautiful pair ofsocks and what I love about silk socks is their slight sheen.
Perfect for moreformal ensembles.
My pocket square is a silk pocket square from Kent Wang andthen my bespoke George Cleverley seamless whole cut shoes which are really quitemiraculous.
It is a very special shoe made entirely from one piece of leather.
There’s not a single seam on the shoe including the heel.
And the semi broguedesign that you see is actually punched into the upper, they aren’t separatepattern pieces.
So beautiful pair of shoes.
A shoe that you’ll really onlyfind bespoke from someone like George Cleverley.
I have my gold CalatravaPatek Philippe watch and one of my favorite pins the Watermen gold andblack Lalique elegance.
And today I’m wearing our new 18 karat gold sovereigngrade collar stays.
If you enjoyed this video, give us a thumbs up and pleasesubscribe to our channel and turn on your notifications by clicking the bellto the right of the subscribe button so that you can learn whenever we releasenew videos.
If you have any questions or commentsabout anything we discussed on this video please ask them in the comment sectionbelow.
And of course please visit hangerproject.
com where we have the largestmost comprehensive collection of luxury garment care and shoe care accessoriesin the world, as well as, many other incredible products for the well-dressed.
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I’m Kirby Allison and thanks for joining us.